The Restaurant Roundup: Native Bombay, Bizza, Lupa & Pincode
Joanna Lobo looks at the industry’s biggest news and newsmakers over the last month.
The Central government introduced the integrated Food Security Scheme to provide free food grains to over 81 crore beneficiaries under the National Food Security Act (NFSA). The frozen food segment in India is growing at a steady pace — the market is set to reach INR 306.61 billion by 2027, growing at a CAGR of 16.2% between 2022 and 2027. The World Economic Forum report says that India figures among the few countries that have been able to evolve their food systems by unlocking the potential of small and medium-sized enterprises.
On the internet, the things riling up Indians are Starbucks promoting a humble cup of filtered coffee for Rs 290 and calling it ‘ajji-approved’, and a Malaysian restaurant serving pappad and pickles as Asian nachos.
Here is what else made news in the food and hospitality industry this new year.
The newly opened Madamoiselle in Goa
Winning Big
Indian food is making some waves abroad. Food website Eater featured one Indian city, Kolkata, in their list of the world’s top 10 food destinations — it came in at No 4. At the Taste Atlas Awards, India ranked fifth (of 95) on the list of best cuisines in the world for 2022.
Pastry chef Eureka Araujo (from Sivako, Mumbai) came in third at the World Pastry Queen championship 2023 held at the SIGEP World Expo in Italy.
A survey by the United Kingdom Tea & Infusions Association (UKTIA) found that samosas were the second preferred tea snack of choice for youngsters (18 to 29-year-olds).
The recent 30BestBarsIndia’s 2022 ranking saw South Delhi bar Sidecar reclaim its position as the country's best bar (along with Best Independent Bar and Best Bar Menu). Other winners include Copitas — Best Hotel Bar, Comorin Gurgaon — Best Restaurant Bar, Brewdog — Best Microbrewery/Taproom, Santanu Chanda of Home — Best Bartender, The Bombay Canteen — Best Designed Bar, and Malaka Spice and Cobbler & Crew — Best Work in Sustainability.
The 2023 James Beard Awards announced their semi-finalists and they include some Indian-origin names: North Carolina’s Preeti Waas nominated for Best Chef for her Cheeni Indian Food Emporium; Mohamed Ali Alkassar and Niven Patel, of Alpareno Restaurant Group for Outstanding Restaurateur.
In the News
It’s been a season for collabs, new launches and shut-downs.
The biggest new in restaurant circles was the announcement by chef René Redzepi that Noma would be shutting down in 2024. In India, less than a year since they launched it, Zomato announced they are shutting down or ‘rebranding’ their 10-minute food delivery service, Zomato Instant. Elsewhere, Swiggy plans to lay off 380 jobs.
Chef and restaurateur, Kunal Kapur launched a new restaurant, Pincode, in Dubai — a pan-Indian restaurant with Indian flavours. Sri Lanka’s Ministry of Crab did a pop up in Delhi in January. Mumbai restaurant Noon’s Vanika Choudhary teamed up with food anthropologist, Eleni Michael to create a pop-up menu that celebrates fermentation and Ladakhi and Kashmiri ingredients.
Clean-label food brand The Whole Truth raised USD 15MN in its Series B round.
In Kerala, the food safety department has said health cards will be mandatory for hotel workers from Feb. 1.
Drink Up
The popular Perry Road Peru is back, offering its distilled cocktail in a bottle. Created by Stranger & Sons and The Bombay Canteen, it will be available in select stores across Maharashtra, Goa, and Karnataka.
Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur brand Quaffine debuted in Goa, offering an all-natural 100% Indian coffee liqueur. Also in Goa is the new Soci Gin, a sipping gin with juniper, cardamom and coriander, and cucumber.
Campari will launch nine new products — Bisquit & Dubouché cognac, Appleton Aged rum, The Glen Grant 21 Arboralis whisky, agave spirit Montelobos Mezcal, Espolon Tequila, a liqueur Frangelico, and bitter aperitif Cynar — to India.
New Eats
The hospitality juggernaut keeps rolling, especially in the metros.
Mumbai has seen the opening of a slew of new coffee shops, offering some warmth in this sudden cold. At Bandstand is Grounded, run by 18-year-old Yuvika Wadhawan, and Steps Café on Mount Mary. There’s also Cafe Paul and Mike by the chocolate makers, American Express Bakery opened a café in Santacruz and Poco Loco’s Megha Datwani launched a new café, Isvara. Other restaurants include Bizza from the Bastian team, modern European Nava Mumbai, the regional Native Bombay, Native Bombay Negroni Bar at Ballard Estate’s 150-year-old Ice Factory, the patisserie Fyole, European Julius, the speakeasy Privé, The Cloud Conscious Café and rooftop bars Praia and Zerua. Over in Alibaug is the garden restaurant, Kiki’s, and Ulhasnagar has Restaurant Bambai.
The latest outlet of Social in Bengaluru now offers a NFT gallery. Also in the city is the Singapore-based pizza bar Alt Pizza, which made its foray into India, and Pride Café, a food truck run by LGBTQIA+ members (an initiative by Solidarity Foundation). In Delhi is the decadent The Weekend, Vietnamese CHÔ, and the Pan-Asian Azula Kitchen & Bar. And Kolkata has the revamped Russian, Milee Droog Coffee & Bistro, and the casual The Bhawanipur House.
In Goa, life is moving at a fast pace in the hospitality industry. Mamagoto launched Lucky Cat, an outdoor Asian Cocktail Bar. In Anjuna is the new Roboto, based on the Izakaya dining concept and serving Gaijin cuisine. In Assagao is Madamoiselle, a boutique hotel that is home to the Mediterranean Rosé and the French Mademoiselle Café. Azule in Ashwem offers modern European fare, while Morjim has Kiko. And at the new Anamiva Hotel in Anjuna is Booked offering decadent treats, and the upcoming speakeasy, Omerta.
Manu Chandra has announced the launch of his new European restaurant, LUPA, in Bangalore, set to open in the first week of February. Aside from his bespoke catering outfit, Single Thread, this is his first customer-facing venture since his exit from the Olive group a year ago.
Get Booked
Celebrity chef Vikas Khanna’s new book doesn’t have recipes but is about food. Imaginary Rain is a love story to Indian food. It is inspired by his grandmother, and also draws from his own experiences as a chef in New York.
Farokh Talati, head chef of London’s St John Bread & Wine dug into his Parsi heritage to create a cookbook, Parsi: From Persia to Bombay: recipes & tales from the ancient culture.
Joanna Lobo is an independent journalist from Goa who enjoys writing about food, her Goan heritage, the freelance life, and other things that make her happy. Follow her on @thatdoggonelady.
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