Sunday Special Kari Dosa

Nehasri Ravishenbagam on the layered flavour-bomb. that is Madurai’s Kari Dosa.

Amma sits in our backyard with a big plate of spices near the ammi-kallu, a traditional stone used to grind spices in south India. The aroma of freshly ground spices always pulls at me. Across the yard, Appa is chopping a bowl full of tender mutton. Though it is Sunday, a day dedicated exclusively to play, the sound of chopping, and the ammi-kallu grinding, brings us straight to the backyard. We line up by Amma and watch her prep for Sunday special Kari Dosa.

Kari Dosa, or mutton kheema dosa, traces its story to the Konar community of Madurai. Traditionally cow-herders, Konar homes topped kari dosas with their traditional masala, which eventually became the community’s signature dish. Pure gingelly oil, extracted from ellu or sesame seeds, with the help of mara chekku or a wooden cold press oil extraction machine, deserves special mention here, given how it is a big contributor to the unique flavours of this dish. Interestingly, mara chekku is made of wood specifically from the Vaaghai tree, as this wood keeps the oil cool and helps retain its flavour.

The Konars set up their first restaurant 55 years ago in the Simmakal area of Madurai, and were known for their Mutton Kari Dosa. This perfectly golden, toasted dosa is a local delicacy that is now an inextricable part of the identity of my hometown, Madurai.

Scattered with brightly coloured temples, Madurai is also known as the Temple city. The city’s rich cultural heritage is synonymous with its humble yet bold flavours! From sizzling hot parathas at midnight, to cold jigardhanda on a sweaty summer days, Madurai never disappoints! Kari Dosa is simply the cherry on its cake.

Three tempting layers make up the Kari Dosa. At the bottom is a plain dosa made from standard batter; the middle layer is a pepper-crusted omelet; and the final layer on top is a spicy kheema. The mutton toppings, made with their unique masala, is the burst of flavours that steal the show. Typically, the Kari Dosa is served with coconut chutney or mutton gravies, but if you ask me, the masala on the top is all you really need.

Recently, in conversation with a Konar family about their Kari Dosa recipe, they told me of a non-traditional twist! Instead of mutton kheema, this family prefers a topping of chicken kheema.  82-year-old Lakshmi Paati explained that she wanted a twist in the traditional recipe, and that her family has been making her chicken-kheema dosa recipe for three generations now. I, who have been eating Mutton Kari Dosa all my life, couldnt’ resist a second helping!

RECIPE: MADURAI’S SUNDAY SPECIAL KARI DOSA

Ingredients
75 g mutton kheema
1 star anise
2 pinches, kalpasi, or black stone flower
50 g onion
¼ tsp cumin seeds
¼ tsp black pepper
Coriander leaves, to garnish
Curry leaves, to garnish
Gingelly oil

Traditional masala
5 red chillies
1 piece cinnamon
2 pcs clove
2 pcs cardamom
3-4 cloves garlic
1 inch piece of ginger
½ tsp water

Dosa
Dosa batter
2 Eggs
Salt, to taste

Method
Begin with finely chopping the mutton pieces into mince. Alternatively, you could have it minced at the store.

To make the traditional masala (paste) for the kheema, grind the spices – red chillies, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, ginger, and garlic, with not more than 3 tsp of water. Set aside.

Now, grind together the cumin seeds and pepper into a fine powder separately. Set aside.

In a cast-iron wok, heat the gingelly oil. Then, add the annachi poo (star anise) and a pinch of black stone flower. When fragrant, add the chopped onions and salt to taste.

After a few minutes, add the mince and sauté for about 10 minutes.

Now, add the spice mix to the mince. Season with the pepper-cumin mix. Now, close the wok with a lid, and turn off the head. Allow to sit for 5 minutes.

Heat a tawa, and pour the dosa batter to make a thick and small-sized dosa. Sprinkle a few drops of gingelly oil over and around the dosa.

Now, pour 1 or 2 eggs on top of the dosa, on simmer. Now, top with kheema, and garnish with coriander and curry leaves.

When the dosa turns golden and crisp, flip it over and cook for another minute.

Your Mutton Kari Dosa is ready to be served.                                                    

Extra tip: Replace the mutton kheema with chicken kheema for a Chicken Kheema Kari Dosa!

Nehasri Ravishenbagam, a Writer with a strong love for letters and waffles with her roots in Tamil Nadu, India.

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