Darjeeling Aloo: A Quintessential Evening Snack in the Hills
In a melting pot of cultures, ethnicities and cuisines, Darjeeling’s ‘aloo’ describes the town best — a coming together of myriad flavours to celebrate the birth of something unique.
The Darjeeling hills, part of the legendary Mayel Lyang, is home to the Lepchas. With the establishment of the Namgyal dynasty in 1642, in present day Sikkim, the Lepchas came to be ruled by Tibetans, who brought with them thukpa, thentuk, laphing, datshi, sha phaley and several other Tibetan staples, adding to the simple cuisine of the Lepchas. The name ‘Darjeeling’ comes from the Tibetan words, ‘dorje’ meaning thunderbolt and ‘ling’ meaning a place or land, hence ‘the land of the thunderbolt’. With the Gorkha infiltration of the state, starting in the 1780s, came long years of battle and changing rule that, once again, brought a new cuisine to the region — that of the Nepalese dal bhat tarkari, momo, sel roti, piro aloo, to name a few.
In 1829, when Captain Lloyd came to visit these hills, to settle the dispute between Sikkim and Nepal over the region, he fell in love with the place and soon the hills became a sanatorium to the British. To this day, many bakeries carry on the tradition of freshly baked bread, cookies and cakes, served with Darjeeling tea.
Over the years, Bengalis came in, and added their own signature to the mix — aloo dum and luchi being the two most beloved. Biharis brought with them their popular ghugni-bhunja and chaat.
My family moved to the town over 200 years ago as traders, and continue to form a small population of Marwaris living there. But growing up as a minority, I never felt like we were part of the pack. In fact, we were often bullied for being Marwaris, My instinct was to run away — which I eventually did. But something in me shifted these last few years, and brought me back home. One dish that never left my mind was Darjeeling’s aloo. A bright orange-red spicy potato curry, doused with more spice, and served on a bed of crispy chips and bhujia, it leaves you hiccupping from the hear, yet always reaching for more.
This beloved tuck-shop snack represents not the Tibetan, Nepalese, British, Bengali or Bihari influences on the region, but something that is intrinsically Darjeeling in its humble yet pack-a-punch nature. The town is peppered with so many tiny shacks selling this delicious snack, but two of my favourites remain Anand & Brothers (earlier part of the very popular Benny’s) and Special Dukkan. However, none of the shops I visited saw dearth of customers.
“My father came to Darjeeling in 1949 and immediately fell in love with the aloo sold in the main market square, where he worked in a ration shop,” says Bubulal Prasad, who has now taken over his father’s business. What started as an everyday evening snack turned into a business, which he set up strategically close to Loreto Convent, the school I went to for 12 years — a good portion of which was spent collecting Rs. 5 change for a pokka (small bowl-sized portion served in a makeshift paper plate) of aloo at the Special Dukkan. It was called Special Dukkan for a reason. Nowhere in town would you find aloo loaded with Bihari chop and pyaazi, spiked with teeteeri (tamarind chutney). Of course, it also featured the usual piro (a fiery chilli chutney), bhuja, fired corn, fryums, and aloo chips. Now, the price of a pokka of aloo is anywhere between Rs 15-25. And the condiments have gone through a journey of their own.
Ravi Gupta, one of the three brothers running Anand & Brothers talks about the now popular mimi-aloo (aloo served over a packet of Mimi, a Wai Wai variant), cheese balls-aloo and even Lays-aloo. His family has been in the business for almost a century and adaptation has been key. The three brother divide their duties. “My eldest brother and mother prep the aloo at home in the morning. Vikas (his younger brother) and I take shifts in the shop in the day, and my mother comes to help, too,” he explains. Vikas is a physics professor by day and renegade aloo specialist by the evening, leaving Ravi free to supplement his income with tuition classes in the evenings. This is their recipe for Darjeeling Aloo.
Recipe: Darjeeling Aloo (serves 4)
Ingredients
For the aloo
4-5 medium potatoes, boiled with a bite
1-2 drops food colouring (orange or red)
½ tsp red chilli powder (Teekha Lal is the brand of choice)
¼ tsp kalonji (black cumin)
½ tsp mustard oil
Salt to taste
For the piro chutney
5-6 green chillies
Salt to taste
For the teeteeri (tamarind chutney, optional)
3-4 pieces of imli
Sugar to taste
Salt to taste
Condiments (to be served over the aloo)
Plain bhuja
Potato chips
Fried corn
Fryums (optional)
Wai Wai (optional)
Mimi / cheese Balls / Lays (any flavour) (optional)
Method
For the aloo
Boil, peel and chop the potato in bite sized pieces. Make sure to not overcook them because it needs more cooking in the curry.
In a kadhai, add the mustard oil.
Once hot, add the kalonji and let it splutter.
Next, add the chilli powder. Make sure the oil is not too hot, as it will burn the chilli powder.
Add salt to taste.
Add the potatoes and toss them in the mix until completely coated.
Pour in the water and bring to boil. Simmer for a few minutes.
For the piro chutney
Grind the green chillies to a fine paste
Add salt and mix to combine.
For the teeteeri (tamarind chutney, optional)
Soak the imli in warm water for half hour.
Remove the pulp and knead with hand.
Strain and add salt and sugar.
To serve
Add aloo to a bowl. I would recommend a paper bowl, because, for some reason, it tastes better in it!
Add the piro chutney and teeteeri to taste. I prefer my bowl without teeteeri.
Crush in the potato chips, bhujia and all other condiments of choice.
Serve hot and enjoy!
Stuti Agarwal is a children’s author with roots in Darjeeling and a passionate food diarist and illustrator. She can be reached via email.
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