Mumbai Meri Jaan: Finding Love & Food in Bombay

Anisha Rachel Oommen talks to 11 Mumbai residents on what a perfect first date in the city looks like: where to go and what to eat.

On a journey of falling in love with the city of Mumbai, I asked the locals I turn to most often for great recommendations, to share what a perfect first date in Bombay looks like to them. And this trusty committee of advisors delivered. From elegant one-line guides, to detailed and thorough drills for the evening, here’s how to find love (and crucially, great food) in Mumbai.

Amrita Amesur, writer
I always recommend Kala Ghoda Cafe, during the day. It's a place I feel safe — both in its environment and in the knowledge that the food and coffee are exceptional, no matter the date itself!

My absolute standard order at KGC is a crisp hot Americano (in a to-go cup, because it stays warmer that way). And a chicken cheese salad sandwich, which I believe to really be the best in the city. If there's room and mood, and the person with you merits it, then a slice of flourless chocolate-almond cake is definitely in order!

Ankiet Gulabani, writer and cook
My first date spot used to be Salt Water Cafe in my late twenties. (It was Bagel Shop in the early years).

I’d always get the classic tomato and garlic spaghetti pasta because I personally think pasta is great first date food — good for conversation, safer than a messy burger that goes everywhere, or (gasp!) ribs. Salt Water is great because the music’s not too loud and I especially love the outdoor section which is so romantic when the weather is good.

Jane Borges, author
Because I live shouting distance from Marine Drive, it has inadvertently become the place where I seek refuge, when distressed, angry or in need of some peace. The sea, still or otherwise, is my oasis of calm and fills me with hope. You could call it clichéd, when I say my idea of a perfect date is a stroll on Marine Drive, but if you’ve ever found yourself at the bay in the rain, or under the blanket of a bedazzling dusk, with a special someone, you will know what I mean. A date here, I’ve realised, removes any unnecessary pressure, nervous eye contact, or forced conversations. There is so much happening around you—lovers hugging, seniors enjoying a laughing party, college bunkers crooning to KK’s ‘Yaaron, dosti’ or a bunch of excited doggies yelping for attention—neither of you will notice how comforting it’s to be together, and still alone. A piping hot Bournvita coffee and some spiced chana sheng, might be the only things you'd need to fill up the empty spaces with love.

Pooja Dhingra, pastry chef & cookbook author
My favourite first date is a walk around Colaba, followed by drinks at Woodside Inn. A classic negroni and sweet potato chips for me, please.

Manan Gandhi, founder Bombay Perfumery
Lighting, I find, is the single most important thing on a first date. The bar at Pali Bhavan has excellent lighting and just the right amount of bustle without being too busy. I typically get a whiskey sour or a glass of wine.

Zainab Tambawalla, children’s book illustrator
I got to know Bombay largely through my husband’s eyes. He grew up here, and his most favourite haunt is Olympia, in Colaba. We’re also partial to the street food at Bhendi bazaar. We ‘d grab a plate of khiri (udder) or tikka from Haji tikka in Bhendi bazaar, or sometimes just a plate of seekh from Sarvi.

Alisha Sadikot, public historian and founder of Art & Wonderment city walks
My choice might seem pretty standard, but I prefer to think of it as classic instead: A walk on Marine Drive and a K Rustom’s icecream sandwich. My personal favourite is coconut crunch.

Farhad Karkaria, writer
I’ve done two things over the years, and it’s worked really well for me. One of my favourite spots has been Jimme’s Kitchen in Bandra — think cheap Chinese, maybe not the best food, and the place itself is tucked away, with a playlist of Credence Clearwater Revival and the Beatles. But I’ve always loved their range of spare ribs. I intentionally like to pick a place that’s meat-intensive because it gives me a great glimpse into who a person is based on how they eat these challenging things. And more often that not, I’ve realised the ones who get their hands messy and have barbecue sauce on their lips, are honest and open; it tells me a lot about them as people, as lovers. I’m the kind of guy who will eat crab on a first date, and I want to know if you can be vulnerable in that way?

Another thing I like to do is a bang-bang (borrowed from Louis CK), where you do 4-5 places in one night. You pick a place then I do — maybe chaat, then small plates, then a more serious meal, and followed by ice cream or juice. It’s a great way to travel with someone over an evening, and get a sense of who they are based on the places they pick. Is he picking the Table when you’re picking Bade Miyan?

Gresham Fernandes, executive chef Impressario
Marlene and I would mostly just get on the bike and ride around Bombay. Sometimes we’d go to Gondola’s on Pali hill, which was the most I could afford at the time. Boat Club for drinks and dancing, the bhel puri guy on the d’Monte Crossroad, and late night club sandwiches at the Land’s End.

Harshvardhan Tanwar, founder, No Footprints
I grew up in Worli, and my perfect first date venue happens to be around the precinct.

To get some extra culture cred on a first date, make your way to the 17th century Worli Fort. It has by far the best view of Mumbai, overlooking colourful artisanal fishing boats and the majestic Sealink. It’s where old Bombay and new Mumbai co-exist. The path there takes you through the vibrant fishing village, and the views are totally worth the trek. Watch the sunset over the gorgeous Mumbai harbour and the Sealink light up and the light disappears. I would maybe pick up an old-school date and walnut cake, or a mawa cake from City Bakery, and a piping hot vada paav from Worli Vada Paav (the best in the city, imho) opposite the erstwhile Mela Restaurant. Some may disagree, given the extra garlicky vada paav is not ideal first date food, but I say, just carry along a couple of mints and you’ll be fine. Once you’re done: make your way to Slink and Bardot at the edge of the village for a lovely end to the evening. The little Thadani House has a lovely vibe. Perfect for a cozy night out.

Anurag Banerjee, photographer
I’m a few months short of completing a decade in Bombay. Much like the city, my relationship with it has changed and evolved. As of this moment, it resembles one that is slightly jaded but something we haven’t given up on. Bombay and I are working on it!

When it’s come to dating, whether I’m with someone who’s from the city or not plays an important part. I tailor the date accordingly, but irrespective, it’s about sharing my love for the city with the other person. Almost as a way of revealing oneself to someone through the city.

I try to be as honest as possible, that I am as fascinated with the big bad city because I’m from a small town, Shillong. I try to balance the infatuation with some history, some stories about the city that I’ve picked up from friends or books or assignments or just my time in the city.

So an ideal first date for me in Bombay is one that weaves through the city, it involves a lot of walking and a huge appetite — for conversation and food. In my early years, I discovered a lot of the city through food. Let me take you to south Bombay — any Irani cafe is a great place to start, for chai and bun maska is the perfect way to start an evening. My favourite is Sassanian, mainly because I hadn’t read about it anywhere when I had found it; I stumbled across it on a shoot. Besides, it’s a great place to start a walk. One can make their way through the lanes to Marine Drive, stop at Rustom’s for ice cream sandwich, then on to Marine Drive, the sea and the promenade where you can work up an appetite. Once the sun sets, head to Strand for a drink with a view, but once there, I almost always insist on a drink at Gokul, mainly because of their chakhli and schzewan chutney — quintessential Bombay culinary heritage. Depending on the mood, dinner is usually the Kala Ghoda Wine Room or Ayub’s rolls.

And well, post that — the entire night lies ahead, and Bombay is at its best. PS. Comfortable footwear is a must!