#1000Kitchens: A Bakhrid Special, Bheja

Bakhrid is not a festival in the same celebratory sense as Eid-ul-Fitr. What defines the day is the act of qurbani, or animal sacrifice, when a goat or water buffalo is ritually slaughtered in Muslim homes in remembrance of Prophet Ibrahim’s offering. It is an observance that carries duty and humility.

At my family home in Lucknow, meals on this day are usually offal-centric. Liver, brain or trotters of the slaughtered animal are cooked and consumed with a rigour unlike any other occasion and the best cuts are reserved for others.

To make a brain curry, there are two non-negotiables: a healthy glug of mustard oil, and dill leaves — for fragrance as much as flavour. Khushbu or aroma captivates the diner even before a bite is taken, but herbs like dill (soya) are especially important in offal and fish dishes, where they help mask any unpleasant smell. Each winter, dill leaves are sundried and stored for use throughout the year. One may now find them off-season, thanks to cold storage and hydroponics, but for traditionalists like our family, the latter is never quite good enough. As for the mustard oil, my Nanu Aunty insists it should be added with a khula haath or a generous hand, since it is essential for the bhunai, the slow browning of the onion–ginger–garlic base to extract.

This is a #1000Kitchens story. More, here.

NANU AUNTY’S RECIPE FOR BHEJA

Cooking time: 30 minutes
Prep time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 kg of goat brain, deveined and cleaned with warm water. 
300g of raw onion paste
100g of ginger-garlic paste
1 heaped tsp of coriander powder
½ tsp of turmeric powder
½ tsp of fenugreek seeds
½ tsp of garam masala
25 g of whisked curd
200 ml of mustard oil
Salt to taste
A handful of chopped fresh dill leaves or 1 tablespoon of dried dill to finish

Method

First, clean the brain. Dip the offal in warm water and gently pick out the mesh of blood capillaries. Take your time with it to prevent it from tearing apart.  
In a heavy-bottom vessel, heat mustard oil to get rid of its pungency and sprinkle the fenugreek seeds. Stir as they splutter.
Add the onion paste before the seeds turn too dark, else they will leave a bitter taste.
As the onion paste starts changing colour, add the ginger-garlic paste and stir it well.
When the oil starts resurfacing, add the dry spices — turmeric, red chilli, coriander and garam masala powder and salt. Mix well and keep stirring occasionally to stop the masala from sticking to the pan.
Add whisked curd and cook till it is well incorporated.
Once the masala is browned well and all the oil has come to the top, gently lay in the brain. Stop stirring here.
Gently pick up the vessel and swirl it for the masala to settle and cover the brain equally. Do not use a spoon to mix.
Sprinkle the dill leaves and cover with the lid. Turn the gas flame to a simmer for 12-15 minutes.
Serve hot alongside roti, onions and green chillies. 

Words by Taiyaba Ali. Images by Sanskriti Bist.
Special thanks to our sponsors.

ALSO ON GOYA