A Gondhoraj-Scented Food Guide to Kolkata

The gondhoraj is a citrus that can be found in every Bengali home. A squeeze of gondhoraj lebu can pep up the simplest meal of rice and dal. Debabratee Dhar describes the gondhoraj as the city’s most affordable luxury, and finds that Kolkata’s street food stalls have been experimenting with the gondhoraj to bring new flavours to familiar dishes.

For decades, Bengalis have pledged their loyalty to the majestic aroma of gondhoraj lime, despite its minuscule yield. In the local bazaars, these limes sell out through the seasons, among the rich and the poor alike. Interestingly, over the last few years, the gondhoraj has been riding a new trend, with dishes like gondhoraj chicken, gondhoraj momo, gondhoraj fish fry, gondhoraj kathi roll, gondhoraj lassi, mousse, and cake finding a spot on restaurant menus and street food stalls.

Every Bengali household has a corner in their refrigerator dedicated to storing gondhoraj lebu through the year. It is a mint-green lime, slightly larger than regular limes, and is deeply cherished for its strong citrus scent. The lime is not generous with its juice, but its aroma teases the appetite and lingers on the palate long after the meal is over.

This lime is an affordable luxury that Kolkata simply cannot have enough of.

Traditionally enjoyed with rice, a few drops of gondhoraj can elevate even the simplest meal of daal and aloo bhaja. This lemon is an affordable luxury in Kolkata, and it has been fascinating to watch Kolkata’s street food stalls experimenting with the gondhoraj over the last few years, bringing new flavours to familiar dishes.

Gondhoraj Lassi

A chilled glass of gondhoraj lassi from Dakshini is a great way to get acquainted with the flavour of gondhoraj. Known for its authentic South Indian cuisine, Dakshini adds a touch of Bengal by blending the juice and zest of gondhoraj in with the yogurt. The lime adds a faint green hue, and every sip of the drink (priced at ₹60) bursts with the tangy flavours of gondhoraj. In the sweltering Kolkata summer, a glass of Dakshini’s gondhoraj lassi brings sweet relief.

Address: 114B, Prince Anwar Shah Rd, Lords More, Jodhpur Park, Kolkata.

Gondhoraj Momo & Gondhoraj Fried Chicken

Channelling the Bengali love for gondhoraj, Arijit Roychowdhury created a gondhoraj-infused momo (₹90) at Leon’s. Since his creation in 2021, several other Kolkata cafes have added the gondhoraj momo to their menus. “He wanted to make our business stand out by adding something unique and original to the menu,” says friend and coworker, Raj Jana. The momo is juicy, with the slightest hint of gondhoraj, served with two house chutneys.

Another creation is his gondhoraj fried chicken (₹190) — shredded chicken slices mixed with gondhoraj juice. It is the perfect snack for a rainy day, alongside a steaming cup of tea. “People make sure to stop by and try our gondhoraj dishes when they visit Kolkata. They always ask for a second helping of our chutney, which we prepare with minced coriander, blended into our special syrup. It perfectly compliments the taste of gondhoraj,” says Jana.

Address: Lord’s More, Jodhpur Park, Kolkata.

Gondhoraj Kathi Roll

It can’t be a Kolkata food story without a kathi roll. At The Magic Pan Cafe (formerly street food stall called Desi Foodiez), owner Soumava Saha decided to add a twist to his kathi rolls. Their gondhoraj roll is filled with salad, potatoes, meat, and dressed with a spicy gondhoraj sauce. “We do not use store-bought sauces or salad dressings. Instead, we prepare an in-house gondhoraj chutney with limes bought fresh from the market,” says Saha. The rolls come in egg, chicken, and mutton variants (₹70).

Address: Raja SC Mallik Road, Jadavpur, Kolkata.

Gondhoraj Mishti Doi

Bengal’s traditional mishti doi is the only acceptable way to conclude any food expedition in Kolkata. Bhawanipur’s Shree Krishna Sweets brings us exactly this, with a squeeze of gondhoraj (₹35/100 gm). Dig in to the creamy dahi served in kulhads, and gondhoraj greets you with a spectacular burst of flavour. Each serving of doi comes garnished with a gondhoraj leaf for aroma, perfectly complimenting the sweetness of doi.

Location: Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Road, Bhawanipur, Kolkata.