My Sister Mapped a Chhole Bhature Guide to Delhi

Kavisha Barot and her sister share a primordial love for chhole bhature. On the cusp of her sister moving abroad, they decide to visit all their favourite haunts in Delhi one last time together. They map this ultimate guide to Delhi’s best chhole bhature.

It is a strict policy in my house to only have spicy aloo parathas or chhole bhature for breakfast on Sunday. It is arguably the best way to begin a Sunday. A core memory from my childhood is waking up to the mouthwatering aroma of chhole, and spending hours talking at the dining table.

When my sister, Vipasha, decided to move abroad for higher studies, the bittersweet realisation of her departure urged my misty-eyed parents to compile a list of her must-visit places and must-eat foods. At the top of her exhaustive list, written in bold, was chhole bhature. As a true-to-form Delhi girl, she filled her stomach (and soul) with the dish she most associated with Delhi and family bonding — and the perfect package of flavours that the chhole bhature represents.

The quest to satiate her bottomless appetite for chhole bhature led to countless trips across various outlets. Ironically, I have come to associate the dish with my sister and the countless experiences we shared.

Here, then, is the Barot-sister approved list of top places to savour chhole bhature.

Nagpal’s Chole Bhature

Founded in 1999 as a tiny outlet, the Nagpal family has seen their venture grow and become one of the most iconic establishments in Delhi. The original eatery was located in Amar Colony by the late Vasudev Nagpal, who sold chhole bhature from a small cart. That small cart eventually led to Nagpal’s becoming a beloved outlet with locals. The founder and his brother went on to open larger outlets in Ashok Vihar and Lawrence Road. Nagpal’s Chole Bhature is ideal for lazy weekend afternoons. Their bhaturas are soft and fluffy with stray pieces of shredded paneer inside. The chhole itself is a symphony of garam masala and spices, served with tangy coriander chutney and a pickle of carrots and green chillies. A plate of Nagpal's chhole bhature is surprisingly light on the stomach.

Address: Block I, Pocket I, Phase I, Ashok Vihar, Delhi.

Sharmaji Ke Chole Bhature

When in Lajpat Nagar, one must visit Sharmaji Ke Chole Bhature. Their speciality is that they serve chhole made without onion and garlic, and a side salad of carrot, radish, and green chillies; in winter, this mixture receives a touch of ginger. The bhature here are indisputably the best, pillowy on the inside and lightly crisp on the outside. “We have been running this outlet for 45 years”, owner Pritam Sharma tells us, as he pours chhole into my father’s bowl. He can be spotted running about, ensuring that his guests have a good time. My sister and I were visiting a sports complex nearby, looking for a good place for breakfast. Spotting a cluster of families around a shop, my sister pulled at me — and that is how we discovered another chhole bhaturewala. It is now one of our go-to favourites whenever we’re in the area.

Address: 21, Dr Choturam Ram Gidwani Marg, Lajpat Nagar, New Delhi, Delhi.

Bhogal Cholle-Bhature Walla

Located inside the labyrinthine gullies of Janpath, Bhogal Cholle-Bhature Walla was founded in 1967 by the late Ram Bharose. This establishment is the perfect pitstop on a shopping trip through Janpath. Our father introduced my sister to this place, who in turn, took me there on one of our shopping expeditions in Janpath. The bhature are crispy and slightly heavy, but the chhole here is truly exceptional. It has pieces of methi pakode in it, an unusual addition that adds a surprising element of texture and flavour. They serve the dish with sliced onions and pickled green chillies that add a certain sourness to the meal and tie it all together. They also serve a delicious assortment of lassis.

Address: Scindia House, Atul Grove Road, Janpath, Connaught Place, Delhi

Sitaram Diwan Chand

Perhaps the oldest chhole bhature spot in Delhi, Sitaram Diwan Chand started in 1950 as a small cart, at Chuna Mandi in Paharganj. Today, they have several franchises, run by Pran Nath Kohli and his son, Puneet. Their chhole is legendary, the colour darker than most, with a rich flavour profile. The special blend of masalas has been the same since its inception and is guaranteed to have you going back for seconds. The bhature are soft but thick. Sliced onions, pickled green chillies, and coriander chutney are the usual accompaniments. Along with the pickled green chillies, there is also pickled hog plum; a surprisingly perfect pairing to the spicy chhole. My sister and I grew up hearing stories of Sitaram, and before she left, we went to the original eatery in Paharganj and put the outlet to test. Spoiler alert: we were not disappointed!

Address: Rajguru Marg, Chuna Mandi, Paharganj, New Delhi, Delhi.

Chache Di Hatti

We first tasted chhole bhature as a family at Chache’s. It was a nostalgia for their college days that brought our parents here; and their tangy and spicy chhole that had my sister and me going back for more .

This iconic establishment has been operational for 70 years in Kamla Nagar and remains a favourite haunt of shoppers and students alike. The bhaturas at Chache are soft, fluffy, and light. The chhole here is dry and made without onion, garlic or even tomato. “The spices of the chhole are cooked in fat and then we add the boiled chhole to this masala mix,” explains Gaurav Saluja, the son of current owner, Kawal Kishore Saluja. The cherry on the top, that makes Chache’s chhole bhature sublime, is a delicious chutney made of coriander, mint, green chillies and tamarind water.

Address: D-33, Kamla Nagar, Delhi.

Kavisha Barot is a writer and culinary arts student. She is a major foodie, earring lover, and dancer who is always ready with a list of restaurant and food outlet recommendations. Follow her on Instagram.

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