Tosha: The Blessed Taste of Kashmir's Sufi Tradition
Tosha is a golden, nutty delight, from Kashmir that is made with ghee, dry fruits and poppy seeds. Making it is a cherished tradition, especially during the holy month of Ramadan in North Kashmir, finds Khursheed Ahmad Shah.
As the chill of winter begins to fade and the first hints of spring paint the valleys of North Kashmir, a sense of anticipation is palpable. The sun’s gentle warmth coaxes the earth back to life, and with it, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations is also revived: the making of tosha.
In northern Kashmir, in the mountains, the farmers gather. They have endured the harsh winter, and now come together to prepare tosha, a sweet that symbolises the promise of a bountiful harvest and the bonds of community and faith.
Tosha is a North Kashmiri treat of ghee, coconuts, and nuts.
As they begin work, the atmosphere is charged with a sense of reverence. They sift flour, hands steadfast, each movement a prayer for the season ahead. The sound of the flour falling through the sieve is a gentle whisper, echoing the dreams of those who toil in the fields.
Through each step of the process, the farmers laugh, exchanging stories, their voices mingling with the soft rustle of leaves outside. The air is filled with the warm, nutty aroma of the flour gently roasting. As the flour turns golden, ghee is poured in, sugar and cardamom are stirred in, sweet and spicy scents intertwine, creating a comforting atmosphere that feels sacred. The dough, now soft and golden, spreads out to cool, solidifying into the sweet treat that will soon be shared.
Tosha is more than just a sweetmeat; it has come to represent a symbol of hope. During Sufi gatherings, it takes on an even deeper significance. People come together to seek solace, forgiveness, and blessings from Allah. In those moments of devotion, the act of preparing and sharing tosha becomes a sacred offering. As Ramadan unfolds in North Kashmir, bakery shops fill with the rich aroma of freshly made tosha. At Iftar, families gather, pouring steaming cups of noon chai as they reach for the sweet, nutty crunch of tosha. That first bite melts in the mouth, a taste of tradition and warmth, making Ramadan even more special.
Moreover, tosha serves as a healer. When illness strikes and the community faces hardship, tosha is made as a gesture of love and solidarity. It is offered to those recovering from sickness, bringing comfort and strength. The belief that tosha carries healing properties — both for the body and the soul — is deeply ingrained in the culture of North Kashmir.
Tosha is always present, whether in times of joy or sorrow, during spiritual gatherings, or to mark the beginning of new ventures.
Draped in a warm pheran, with a kangri glowing beneath, winter in Kashmir feels incomplete without a cup of noon chai and a bite of tosha. The rich, salty-sweet tea pairs perfectly with the nutty crunch of the sweet. In the cold, these simple joys bring warmth, making every sip and bite a taste of home.
Note: This recipe comes from Owais Ahmad Lone, from Bake Mart in Handwara.
OWAIS AHMAD LONE’S RECIPE FOR TOSHA
Ingredients
200 g of refined flour
1 cup ghee
6 tsp chopped coconut
4 tsp chopped raisins
4 tsp chopped cashews
4 tsp chopped almonds
3 tsp poppy seeds
7 tsp sugar
Method
You start with the simplest of ingredients: flour and water.
Allow the dough to take shape in your hands, soft and pliable. Knead it with patience, feeling it transform under your fingertips. Let it rest. Some things, like dough (and people), need time to settle before they become their best selves.
As you roll the dough, you might remember the first time you tried this — how uneven and wobbly your first attempt was, how someone laughed and showed you the right way. Now, your hands move with confidence. You place it on the tawa, the sizzle a quiet reminder that warmth changes everything. You watch it turn golden, flipping it gently, just like you were taught.
Once roasted, you tear it into small pieces, feeling the crispness between your fingers. It is here that the sweetness begins. You sprinkle sugar, watching it settle into the warm pieces, seeping in just enough to melt a little. Then, you add the dry fruits — the crunch, the chew, the mix of textures, just like the ups and downs of life.
Now, the moment that brings it all together. You heat the ghee, and as you pour it over the mixture, the air fills with a fragrance that pulls you in, that makes you close your eyes for just a second. You knead, not just with your hands, but with care, with love. The warmth seeps into your skin, into your soul. The more you knead, the smoother it gets, the more the flavors blend. Just like life — sometimes, all it needs is a little warmth, a little patience.
You take small portions and shape them gently, rolling them in poppy seeds, feeling the final piece come together. And as you place them on a plate, you can’t help but smile. This is not just food. This is a story. This is home.
Now, as you take a bite, let it remind you of something beautiful — a childhood memory, a warm afternoon, a loved one’s laughter. Serve it to your family, to your friends, or simply to yourself. Because food, like love, is meant to be shared. And in this moment, with a bite of Tosha melting in your mouth, life feels just a little sweeter.
Khursheed Ahmad Shah is a freelance journalist from Jammu and Kashmir covering rural life, food, health, education, culture, and the environment.
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