Kulthi ka Chaar, a Dakhni Muslim Rasam

Zahra Harmain’s recipe for kulti ka chaar is a warming Dakhni Muslim favourite that uses sprouted horsegram, to create a potent, sinus-clearing rasam.

Any self-respecting South Indian family will boast a peppery, hot, rasam recipe that has been a family favourite for eons. But a rasam is so much more than just that. Ayurveda prescribes rasams to remedy common illnesses like the cold and cough; to clean the palate after a bout of fever; and even help settle stomach trouble.

The pandemic forced people to fend for themselves, isolating at home, without the infrastructure of domestic workers, restaurants, or office cafeterias. Support groups mushroomed across social media platforms, and people shared stories and recipes. Some of these made it to the newspapers; some quietly functioned under private settings, creating an air of intimacy among people who shared fears and failures from their kitchens. Through a time of unimaginable suffering, we cooked and ate together. We became more conscious of what we ate, too, and where it came from. Kitchen gardens bloomed and even a single tomato or herb harvested was success.

On Instagram, Deepa Reddy, anthropologist, food culture enthusiast, and dear friend, sparked a movement dedicated to rasams, when she posted a Maavilai Rasam recipe — rasam made with tender mango leaves. Archana Chandrasekaran, a home-cook with a vast repertoire of Tamilian recipes, and myself, backed by a rich Malnad culinary legacy, joined the chorus. Soon, several varieties of rasam, some part of everyday fare, some unique to specific geographies and traditions, were being shared under the hashtag #rasamseries. We have since collected a compendium of hundreds of rasam recipes, including an heirloom zero-waste Lemon Rasam handed down by my grandmother, which uses every last bit of rind and seed; a sweet and sour wedding special Pannir (rosewater) Rasam from Archana’s family caterer; a wide array of fruit rasams that employ everything from kiwi to wood apple; and rasams that provide deeper insights into cultural microcosms and a matrix of flavour overlays.

For example, this Dakhini Muslim recipe, Kulthi ka Chaar, made out of horsegram, is a great window into court cuisine featuring Karnataka-Andhra culinary influences. Shared by Zahra Harmain, who says that it’s a winter staple in her family, the recipe uses horsegram in sprouted form, which makes it easily digestible and less heat-inducing. It is diabetic-friendly, too, and packed with iron and protein. While the rasam, made with the stock water from boiling horsegram sprouts, is filled with a cascade of flavours and textures, the remaining sprouts are turned into a delicious side dish, much like usili or sundal. Kulthi ka Chaar is a unique recipe, in which garlic, onions and tomatoes are ground in for maximum flavour. And once the tempering (comprising fried onions and curry leaves) is poured in, culinary tradition forbids sneaking even a whiff of the aroma, lest it steal the rasam of its punch.

ZAHRA HARMAIN’S RECIPE FOR KULTHI KA CHAAR

Ingredients
250 g horsegram, sprouted
2 cups water

Method
Boil the sprouted horsegram in a pressure cooker with 2 cups of water for 5 whistles
Once the pressure goes off, pour the stock water into a deep saucepan, set aside

For the paste
100 g freshly grated coconut
1 onion, diced
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
2 tsp roasted cumin seeds
8-10 cloves of garlic
1-2 tbsp boiled sprouted horsegram

Method
Grind together the rest of the ingredients, add to the stock water

For the rasam
3 tsp red chilli powder (adjust according to preference)
2 tbsp tamarind extract (freshly extracted)
Salt, to taste

Method
Add the chilli powder, tamarind extract and salt, and let it simmer for 10-12 minutes

For the tempering
2 tbsp oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 onion, sliced thin and long
2 sprigs of curry leaves

Method
Heat the oil and temper with mustard, once it splutters, add the cumin, and then the onion slices and curry leaves
Fry until the onions turn translucent and turn off the heat, add to the hot rasam and cover immediately
Serve hot with rice or ragi mudde

Banner image credit: Zahra Harmain

Ranjini Rao is a writer and communications professor based in Bangalore. She is passionate about food, multiculturalism, sustainability and open education.

ALSO ON THE GOYA JOURNAL