Around India in 36 Dishes

This Republic Day, Shraddha Chowdhury embarks on a delicious journey through India’s 28 states and 8 Union Territories, charting a vibrant culinary trail that celebrates the nation’s rich diversity and irresistible tastes.

There is no such thing as ‘Indian’ cuisine. The country’s culinary heritage is too vast and varied; to be clubbed under such an umbrella would be simplistic and reductive. Even bordering states may present regional gems that are poles apart in flavours with their unique spice blends, preparation techniques and ingredients that may be native to the place.

Let me issue a disclaimer here that this is no scientific shortlist, but one born from pure joy — I’ve leaned on the nostalgia and memories that food inevitably creates, choosing the dish that pops into my mind from either personal experience or storytelling. In this attempt to celebrate the staggering diversity of our country’s cuisine, this list include mains and sides, chutneys and street food, and in some cases, a feast.

Andaman & Nicobar Islands: Coconut Prawn Curry

Seafood is central to the cuisine of the islands, and a wide variety of freshwater and saltwater species are available. Although a lot of the curries here show hints of Bengali influences, they are also rich in coconut milk, like the coconut prawn curry. Locally available prawns (tiger, king and jumbo) are cooked in a creamy base of coconut milk, and the gravy is infused with curry leaves. This aromatic dish became popular after it featured in Tomb Raider The Official Cookbook And Travel Guide, based on the Tomb Raider video game. Recipe

Andhra Pradhesh: Kodi Kura

Using both green and red chillies, this chicken curry is an explosion of flavours obtained from the use of poppy seeds, peanuts, curry leaves and coconut milk. It is slow-cooked to allow the meat to absorb the special marinade of garam masala (cumin, peppercorns, fennel, coriander seeds, cinnamon, green cardamoms and cloves). In many parts, this is made with natu koli (country chicken). Recipe.

Arunchal Pradhesh: Lukter

Beloved among the state’s tribal communities, lukter is a popular side dish; some call it a chutney. The meat (beef or chicken) is dried in the sun or over a fire, and pounded with chillies. This is usually the bhut jolokia, a chilli native to Northeast India and considered one of the hottest in the world. Recipe.

Assam: Masor Tenga

Typically Assamese in its tanginess, thanks to the tomatoes, lemon, raw mango or kokum used as a souring agent, masor tenga is a runny fish curry. The fish is typically rohu or katla. Methi (fenugreek) makes up the other dominant flavour. Recipe

Bihar: Litti Chokha

This Bihari delicacy comprises the litti — a dense, grilled dough ball made of wholewheat flour and stuffed with spiced sattu (roasted gram flour), and chokha — a smoked veggie mash with onion, garlic, green chilies, mustard oil and brinjals. It is served with accompaniments like pickle or a salad, and a generous dose of ghee. This dish is a regular feature during festivals and gatherings, and is ubiquitous in Bihar, Uttar Pradhesh and Jharkhand. Recipe

Chandigarh: Butter Chicken

Being a Union Territory surrounded by neighbours with strong cuisines, many of the dishes eaten here are familiar. Think sarson da saag, Amritsari kulcha and, of course, butter chicken. Although Delhi famously stakes claim for its creation, it’s one of the stars of the cuisine here. A rich and creamy curry made with yogurt-marinated chicken in a spiced tomato base, butter chicken can be found in dhabas across the region. Recipe

Chhattisgarh: Iddhar

Prepared with locally grown kochi patta or arbi (colocasia) leaves and ground urad dal (black gram), iddhar is a hearty snack that reflects the earthiness of Chhattisgarh’s cuisine. The two ingredients are arranged in alternate layers, rolled out, steamed or fried, and sliced into smaller pieces. They are also often immersed in a delicious yoghurt-based kadhi. Recipe.

Dadra & Nagar Haveli, Daman & Diu: Seafood Curry

Dadra & Nagar Haveli and Daman & Diu were two separate union territories until they were merged into one in 2020. While their food remains similar due to geographical proximity, Dadra & Nagar Haveli, in comparison, has an abundance of vegetarian fare. But central to their coastal cuisine is fish, best eaten in a seafood curry, made with freshly caught fish, or crab or lobster. The flavours reflect Goan and Konkan influences on the local palate in the form of spicy, tangy dishes, and Portuguese touches in the milder, coconut-heavy gravies. Recipe.

Goa: Pork Vindaloo

With roots in Portugal, the name ‘vindaloo’ supposedly came from the Portuguese dish, carne de vinha d’alhos, which translates to meat with wine or vinegar and garlic. Pork vindaloo or vindalho is a staple in Goan Catholic households and includes pork loin cooked with chillies, onions and spices. The hot and tangy dish gets its distinct flavour because of toddy vinegar used in the marinade, which tenderises the meat and preserves it. Recipe

Gujarat: Undhiyu

A hearty, earthy, seasonal dish, undhiyu is prepared with vegetables available along the South Gujarat coast in winter, like methi (fenugreek leaves), Surti papdi (broad beans) and tuvar lilva (pigeon peas). It’s a laborious cooking process — an array of vegetables is first fried in batches and then cooked together with spices. In many villages, undhiyu is prepared by layering vegetables in a pot and burying it overnight so it cooks slowly. Recipe

Haryana: Singri ki Sabzi

In the agriculture-dominated state, Haryana enjoys this dish made with singri or ker sangri, a dried desert bean found in abundance in the state. It’s an easy preparation, made with the usual spices, and a hint of amchur. Sometimes, yoghurt is added too. Recipe

Himachal Pradesh: Dham

A classic vegetarian feast, dham typically includes rice, dal, rajma, madra (kidney beans cooked in yogurt), paneer-mattar (cottage cheese and peas) and sweets like meetha bhaat (sweetened rice); it is an abundance of lentils, dairy and grains. The menu varies from district to district as local ingredients and seasonal produce influence the food. In fact, the cultural diversity of Himachal is evident in the regional avatars of dham. It’s served on platters made from dried leaves called dham pattals. Recipe.

Jammu & Kashmir: Rogan Josh

The main dish in the Kashmiri wazwan (a multi-course meal), rogan josh was brought to Kashmir by the Mughals and adapted to the local palate with the region’s spices and cooking style. Mostly made with goat or lamb meat, it’s Kashmir’s signature dish made with a blend of several spices, and cooked for hours over a low flame (dum-style) until the meat becomes tender. The dish gets its characteristic red colour from Kashmiri red chillies and the ratanjot (alkanet) flower found there. Recipe.

Jharkhand: Rugra Curry

Also called rugda or futka, these grape-shaped, white and brown mushrooms are indigenous to Jharkhand. They grow in the monsoon and are sometimes called ‘Jharkhand’s vegetarian mutton’ owing to their texture. The state’s cuisine is largely driven by tribal and forest culture, and rugra curry is a celebrated delicacy. It requires the most basic ingredients (onions, tomatoes, ginger-garlic paste and your everyday spices), and 10-15 minutes of your time. Recipe.

Karnataka: Bisibele Bath

Deeply rooted in Kannadiga cuisine and heritage, this dish is believed to have originated in the kitchen of the Mysore Palace. A beloved staple across the state, bisibele bath translates to “hot lentil rice” in Kannada. This slow-cooked aromatic dish is a delectable blend of lentils, rice, vegetables, tamarind and a special spice mix, garnished with cashews and curry leaves. Recipe.

Kerala: Meen Moilee

A mildly spiced stew based in coconut milk, Kerala’s popular moilee is primarily made with firm fish that have few bones, like pomfret or kingfish. It’s believed to have historical links to the Portuguese, who ruled Kerala in the 15th century. Legend has it that a local woman named Molly added coconut milk and green chilies to tone down the spice levels of the traditional Kerala fish curries to make it palatable for non-locals. Recipe

Ladakh: Skyu

High in carbs and calories, this soothing Ladakhi soup is the perfect companion for a cold evening, also a favourite among high-altitude trekkers. Skyu represents the Ladhaki people’s ability to adapt to their environment. This soup is often served with momos and contains pasta-shaped wheat dough in a soupy mixture made up of local vegetables. Sometimes, mutton or beef bones are added too. Recipe

Lakshadweep: Mas Podichathu

The cuisine of these islands is influenced by both Kerala’s Malabari fare and the culinary traditions of the Maldives. Tuna, a popular fish on the islands, is eaten in the form of a thoran or a curry, and is also often savoured in a version of mas huni, a Maldivian breakfast delicacy. Known as mas podichathu locally, it resembles a salad made with tuna, coconut, onions, green chilies and spices. Recipe

Madhya Pradesh: Dal Bafla

A household staple in the Malwa region of central India, and a popular food in Indore and Ujjain, dal bafla is a close relative of the Rajasthani dal baati with a few stark differences. In Madhya Pradesh, the bafla (dough balls) are boiled before being baked and seeped in ghee, which makes them much softer in texture. They are crumbled over tangy toor dal (pigeon peas), or even eaten as a snack. Recipe

Maharashtra: Vada Pav

Vada pav is the symbol of Mumbai’s street food and the pride of Maharashtrian cuisine. While ‘pav’ was introduced to the region by the Portuguese during their short reign in the mid-1500s, Ashok Vaidya is credited with starting the vada pav craze from the first stall he opened outside Dadar railway station in 1966. Over the years, it’s become the go-to snack of the working class. A ball of spiced, mashed boiled potato is first dipped into gram flour batter and deep fried; the fritter is then served inside a pav or bun, paired with a garlic-chilli powder, coriander chutney and fried green chillies. Recipe

Manipur: Eromba

Beloved across Manipur, especially with the Meitei community, eromba is a chutney whose hero ingredient is fermented fish or ngari. In its simplest form, eromba essentially has boiled vegetables and fermented fish mashed with chillies and other seasonal produce like colocasia, banana flower or bamboo shoot. Recipe

Meghalaya: Jadoh

Jadoh, a Khasi delicacy, is an aromatic dish of rice and pork. Here, red rice is cooked with a generous serving of meat—it’s a popular pork dish but sometimes made with chicken and mutton—and often served with a side of tungrymbai, which is fermented soybeans cooked with black sesame seeds. In some varieties of jadoh, blood is one of the key ingredients. Recipe

Mizoram: Bai

Nourishing and delectable in equal measure, bai is a Mizo stew prepared with vegetables and meat (poultry, pork and fish), and seasoned with herbs and spices. A key aspect of bai is that it’s made using an abundance of locally available ingredients and wild edible plants. Recipe.

Nagaland: Akini Chokibo

An expensive delicacy, this Naga dish features paddy field snails, perilla seeds, pork lard and axone, a fermented soybean product. ‘Akini’ refers to the perilla seeds — a key ingredient in Naga cuisine — and ‘chokibo’ to the snails. The perilla seeds are first roasted and ground, and then cooked with the other ingredients. Recipe

NCR/Delhi: Chhole Bhature

This combination of chhole masala and large, crispy puris has been central to Delhi’s food landscape since the Partition of India, when Punjabi refugees migrated to the capital and brought their love for chhole with them. Chhole Bhature is a popular street food here. A man named Sita Ram is credited with introducing the dish to Delhi, through his restaurant Sita Ram Diwan Chand. Such is the popularity of “C-Bhats” that October 2 is celebrated as International Chhole Bhature Day. Recipe

Odisha: Dalma

Besides being a common household dish in Odisha, dalma is held sacred for its connection to Lord Jagannath. It’s said to have originated among the Savara tribal folk — the first to worship the deity as Neela Mahadev — and is today offered as bhog at the Jagannath Temple in Puri. Dalma is typically made with toor dal and vegetables like eggplant, pumpkin, green papaya, gourd or plantain. Recipe

Puducherry: Meen Puyabaisse

The meen puyabaisse of Puducherry harks back to the territory’s French colonial past — this is essentially the Indian version of the bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish soup that originated in Marseille. Made with a variety of fresh fish, prawns and seafood broth, and cooked in ghee and coconut milk, this stew draws from the French while keeping the spicy and tangy flavours of Tamilian cuisine intact. Recipe

Punjab: Makki di Roti and Sarson da Saag

A quintessential winter dish that represents Punjab’s agricultural heritage, makki di roti (cornmeal flatbread) and sarso da saag (mustard greens) is a hearty combination that always has one reaching in for more. It’s commonly eaten during the harvest festival of Lohri. Recipe.

Rajasthan: Dal Baati Churma

This beloved dish is a combination of baked balls of dough (baati), flavourful panchmel dal (five different varieties of dal), and a sweet churma (crushed baati mixed with melted ghee, sugar and dry-fruits). Although a classic in erstwhile royal kitchens, it’s believed to have its origins on the battlefield of Bappa Rawal, the founder of the Mewar Empire, where soldiers needed food that wouldn’t spoil for days. Churma was supposedly born out of an accident, when a baati erroneously fell into sugarcane juice. Recipe

Sikkim: Momos with Thukpa

Although available countrywide, momos were brought to Sikkim by Tibetan settlers in the 1960s. The people of Sikkim adapted them to the local palate with regional ingredients and spices. Momos are steamed dumplings filled with either vegetables, or meat. Thukpa, a comforting noodle soup served with momos, is a fusion of Tibetan, Nepalese and Bhutanese culinary traditions — and a nod to Sikkim’s location between the regions. Recipe.

Tamil Nadu: Chettinad Chicken

The bold and aromatic Chettinad chicken with its roots in the Chettiar community of Sivaganga is a beloved dish in Tamil Nadu. Known for its complexity and depth, this dish uses a Chettinad masala with ingredients like fennel seeds, star anise, cinnamon, cloves and black peppercorns. Tender pieces of meat are cooked with this ground masala, and some yoghurt. Recipe

Telangana: Hyderabadi Biryani

While the debate over which biryani is the best will never find a winner, Hyderabadi Biryani will always hold its own. Born in the lavish kitchens of the Nizams, the former rulers of Hyderabad, they carry evidence of Mughlai culinary traditions—slow-cooking and layering—and Persian influences in the use of fragrant basmati rice and an assortment of spices. The dum (sealed) preparation, potent mix of spices and use of yoghurt for marination makes the biryani distinctly Hyderabadi. It’s also served with mirchi ka salan, a Hyderabad special spicy, tangy and peanut-y gravy. Recipe

Tripura: Mui Borok

Mui borok is the traditional cuisine of Tripura’s people, abundant in the use of locally available ingredients such as bamboo shoot, indigenous herbs, leafy greens and fish. The flavour of mui borok varies on the basis of the fish, which can either be fresh, dried or fermented. The dish uses no oil, and sometimes, snails are added too. Recipe.

Uttar Pradesh: Tunday or Galouti Kebab

The story of this melt-in-your-mouth dish is believed to date back to the 17th century. The aging Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula of Awadh, who didn’t want to compromise on his love for kebabs, demanded one that didn’t need chewing. Khansama Haji Murad Ali won the contest by creating a melt-in-the-mouth kebab, the tunday or galouti kebabs of today. The kebabs earned their name from the chef, who was missing an arm (in Hindi, a person without an arm is known as tunday). The kebabs get their unmatched flavour from a mix of many spices combined in a unique ratio — a secret recipe that’s been passed down generations — though variations have emerged over the years. Recipe

Uttarakhand: Kafuli

Kafuli reflects the traditional cooking methods of the Pahari people who use seasonal produce to create nutritious and flavourful meals. This is a gravy dish made with leafy greens — spinach is the most common base, but methi leaves, nettle grass or mustard leaves are also used, and it’s thickened with curd and rice powder or paste. It is a regular feature in Gharwal homes. Recipe

West Bengal: Shorshe Ilish

Illish (hilsa) is the most prized fish of Bengal, savoured above all others and relished especially when coated in thick shorshe (mustard seed) paste. No celebration is complete without a helping of shorshe ilish, which is also offered to the goddess during Durga Puja. Making it all the more traditional is the shil nora (stone spice grinder) that’s used to make a paste out of the mustard seeds. Recipe

Shraddha Chowdhury is a consulting editor and lifestyle writer, with special interest in fashion, travel and F&B.

Jaysi Nigam is a Communication Design student at NID Assam, passionate about visual storytelling and design and driven to use design for social impact, celebrating diverse cultures and addressing social issues.

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