Why this Tanjore Recipe is Equal Parts Odd & Genius

Vijayalakshmi Sridhar writes about the hidden genius of a recipe that is a culinary workhorse.

I was never a fan of the Tanjore delicacy, thani kootu. Between the exquisite culinary aesthetic and vibrant, rich flavours of South Indian festive fare, this dish is the odd go-between. Put together with a few simple ingredients— tamarind, dal, and jaggery — this kootu is hardly the pinnacle of culinary sophistication. While kootu occasionally includes vegetables, it is often made without, making it an incomplete pairing with the South Indian meal staple, rice. So what place does the kootu have in a culturally rich and meaningful context? 

This Tanjore specialty is prepared as part of the Sumangali Prarthanai, a prayer observed to seek the blessings of women in the family who have passed away. It is neither a stand-alone dish, nor made exclusively for that occasion. There are many thani kootu fans who relish it on its own, outside of Sumangali Prarthanai. Thani kootu is essentially the coming together of only two major flavours: tanginess from the tamarind, and sweetness from jaggery. These are balanced with heat from a spice paste, and crunch from the generous tadka.  

Of course, as with any traditional dish, this recipes varies slightly from home to home, following each family’s individual culinary traditions, handed down through generations. The addition of coconut oil in some homes can change the flavour significantly. Others add a dollop of butter at the end, for a smoother mouth-feel. 

But when prepared for a prayer or celebration, usually before a wedding, this gravy acts as a base to include various (cooked) vegetables; most often, native varieties like cluster beans and snake gourd. Given the versatility of the kootu, it marries with each vegetables seamlessly, sliding quietly into the background, allowing the texture and flavour of the vegetable to shine.

Thani kootu is the rare traditional recipe that is not labour or time intensive, an efficient and beloved dish that stands testament to everyday, ordinary cooking that is simple yet delicious.  

Recipe for Tanjore Thani Kootu

Serves 2 

Ingredients
A large lime-sized ball of tamarind
Lime-sized ball of jaggery
A pinch of turmeric powder
A pinch of hing – a pinch
Salt, to taste

To roast & grind
2 tbsp chana dal
1 1/2 tbsp coriander seeds
6 dry red chillies
2 tbsp shredded coconut
1 tsp of coconut oil

For tadka
3 tsp coconut oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tbsp chana dal
1 tbsp urad dal
1 tbsp shredded coconut
8 curry leaves
A pinch of hing 

Method
Roast the ingredients above in coconut oil, then grind to a fine paste with a dash of water.

Soak the tamarind ball in water for 10 minutes. Squeeze with your fingers for a thick extract.
Add salt and turmeric powder, and set it to boil on medium flame for 5 to 7 minutes.
When the raw smell disappears, add the spice paste.
Allow to boil for another five minutes, then add in the jiggery, and stir until it melts completely. Switch off the flame once the koottu thickens.  

Now, pour coconut oil into a hot wok.
When the oil is hot, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds stop crackling, add in the chana dal and urad dal, and shredded coconut. When they turn golden brown, add in the curry leaves, then hing, and switch off the flame.
Pour tadka into the kootu. 
Serve hot. 

Vijayalakshmi Sridhar is a features writer and a published fiction author currently based out of Bengaluru.

Banner image: Supriya Arun

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