Biryani is India's Favourite Dish; Japan Pays a Premium for Armpit Sweat; Olympic goes Plant-first

Joanna Lobo rounds up all the biggest news in F&B.

One of the biggest topics of conversation is the upcoming Olympic Games in France. On the food end, we’ve learned that France is committed to ensuring fresh, healthy food, with low carbon footprint and low waste — 60% plant-based food, 80% of the food served (13 million meals!), will come from within France; 80% will have sustainability labels and 30% will be organic food. The food will highlight all French regions, will include 75% fresh ingredients and at least two vegetarian options per day.

Also reporting: all is not well in the food world.

A UN report, Global Land Outlook Thematic Report on Rangelands and Pastoralists, says up to 50% of rangelands (a category of Earth’s land cover that consists mostly of natural grasslands used by livestock and wild animals to graze and forage) are degraded, posing a severe threat to humanity’s food supply and the wellbeing and survival of billions of people.

A report by Public Eye, a Swiss investigative organisation, claims that Nestlé adds sugar to infant milk sold in poorer countries in Africa, Asia, and Latin America, while in Nestlé’s main European markets, including the UK, there is no added sugar in formulas for young children. In India, MDH Group’s Curry Powder, Madras Curry Powder and a few other powders were found to be toxic through a routine Food Surveillance Programme by the Centre for Food Safety (CFS) of the Hong Kong; subsequently, Hong Kong and Singapore have banned MDH and Everest food products. The FSSAI, however, has recently announced that it did not find ethylene oxide in the samples they took from the company. It begs the question: do we trust the FSSAI? What other harmful chemicals are passing unnoticed in our food? Always read labels, folk. Always read labels.

Latest dietary guidelines from the Indian Council of Medical Research (ICMR) classifies bread, butter, cooking oil, and milk-based health drinks as ultra-processed food.

Food poisoning cases are on the rise in India. Multiple restaurants were raided and shut down in Hyderabad for hygiene violations after officials found stale food, and insects in flour. An eatery in Kochi, Rahath Pathirikkada, was shut down after three kids developed food poisoning. A woman died from food poisoning in Thrissur; 85 others were hospitalised. After a 12-year-old consumed ice cream with liquid nitrogen and got a hole in her stomach, the commissioner of the food safety department in Karnataka has banned the use of liquid nitrogen when serving food.

Desi News: A Dalit Memoir with Recipes; the Indian Love Affair with Biryani; Yauatcha Completes 12 Years

Fancy a food trail? Guestronomy and Mharo Khet are teaming up to offer a 7-9 course plant-forward menu, in Chennai, Kochi and Bengaluru.

There’s no denying Indians love their biryani. Just Dial research for the last year shows that biryani featured in top 3 searches across all Tier 1, Tier 2, and Tier 3 cities. Chinese cuisine was the most searched international option across the country (31%), followed by Korean.

The World’s 50 Best, global rankings by the William Reed media company, unveiled the extended list of best restaurants for 2024 and it includes Masque (78), and Indian Accent (89).

In May, Hospitality Hope by Rashmi Uday Singh had their debut Hospitality Hope Icon Awards dedicated to 27 iconic Mumbai eateries like Soam, Chaitanya, R Bhagat Tarachand (1895), and Shree Thaker Bhojanalay, among others.

There’s yet another MasterChef Australia chef in town. Former judge, and winner, Andy Allen teamed up with everyone’s favourite, chef Hussain Shahzad for an Australia-inspired Menu at O Pedro. Meanwhile, Central, crowned the World's Best Restaurant 2023, came to India in May, where chef Virgilio Martínez did a pop up at Koishii, The St. Regis Mumbai.

Part of the meal curated by Asutralian chef, Andy Allen, and Hussain Shahzad at O Pedro, BKC

New findings by the Godrej Foods Trend Report 2024 claim that 92.3% travellers will join culinary site tours, there’s been a 94.2% growth in artisanal chocolates, and 2024 will illuminate the pivotal role women have played in the culinary landscape of India.

At the Cannes Film Festival 2024, Godawan announced a long-term project to preserve classic Indian films via digitization and colour restoration. Rock Paper Rum, unveiled Rock Paper Coffee, a line of single-origin Arabica coffee.

Seven Indian eateries found a place on online food encyclopaedia Taste Atlas’s list of 150 legendary restaurants of the twenty-first century: Paragon in Kozhikode, Tunday Kababi in Lucknow, Peter Cat in Kolkata, Amrik Sukhdev Dhaba in Murthal, Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) in Bengaluru, Karim’s in New Delhi, and Ram Ashraya in Mumbai. A new book, India’s Most Legendary Restaurants, has five writers trace the humble origins of these immensely popular eateries.

Coming this month is the English translation of Shahu Patole’s book, Anna He Apoorna Brahma. It was the first of its kind, documenting Dalit food history through the lens of the Mahar and Mang communities. Dalit Kitchens of Marathwada is a memoir complete with recipes, commentary on caste-based discrimination and sattvic (pure) foods, and features foods not known to Savarna dictionaries.

Vedangi Gawde, Chef de Partie, Sivako, was named Callebaut Patissier of the Year 2024.

Yauatcha celebrated their 12 year anniversary in India by releasing a limited edition, Yauatcha Life Magazine, telling the stories of people who made Yauatcha what it is, essays on history of dim sums and more. Elsewhere, 50Best Tastehunter and food journalist Smitha Menon, launched a video podcast Big Food Energy featuring conversations with top food and drink entrepreneurs from India and around the world.

Global News: A Spoon for Salty Flavours; Food Conjured out of Thin Air; Japanese Armpit Rice Balls

The most bizarre food trend award goes to Japan, where onigiri rice balls are being shaped using sweat from armpits. The finished product is being sold at 10 times that of regular rice balls in restaurants.

Elsewhere, Japanese company, Kirin Holdings, is launching a spoon that claims to enhance salty tastes, by producing a weak electrical current that concentrates sodium ion molecules on the tongue, without extra sodium.

In Finland, scientists are making food out of air. Solar Foods' recently opened factory outside Helsinki uses technology to grow protein out of cells using air and electricity, and are working on making the world’s most sustainable protein.

The first Michelin Guide to Latvia was launched recently, and features 26 establishments, of which one was awarded One MICHELIN Star and three, a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand. At this year’s Michelin Guide Ceremony Nordics, Copenhagen received 26 Michelin Stars maintaining its position as the leading Michelin city in the Nordics.

On the new Norwegian Aqua, set to sail in April 2025, you can expect three brand-new onboard offerings including Sukhothai, a Thai specialty restaurant; Swirl Wine Bar; and Planterie, the Brand’s first dedicated eatery offering a full plant-based menu.

Nestlé’s new frozen-food brand, Vital Pursuit, set to launch in the fall of 2024 and will target GLP-1 drug users, (relating to diabetes and blood pressure) with products like sandwich melts, pizzas and frozen bowls with whole grains or pasta.

In Malaysia, 2,400 people ate their way into the Malaysia Book of Records for the most number of people eating kacang pool, a baked beans dish cooked with spices.

New Launches: Carnival by Trèsind comes to Mumbai; and Bastian goes to Bengaluru

Mumbai continues to lead the country with new openings. Top among them is Carnival by Trèsind, an offshoot of the modern Indian award-winning restaurant Trèsind. There’s Mokai doing quick eats inspired from cafés and streetside eateries in China and Singapore; sandwich shop Santa Maria; Konkani Haven for coastal food; coffee shop Mool Kaapi Bar & Bakes; Privé by Fame for Mediterranean food; Eve in Worli, the Lebanese SunBun; The Mediterranean La Mar; Mayouchi at The Westin Mumbai Powai Lake doing Japanese and Chinese food; and Waikiki, paying homage to heritage of the Pacific Islands.

Dining, with a show, at Carnival by Trèsind

In Gurugram, chef Suvir Saran launched the modern Indian, Te Amo. Additionally, the city has the Latin-American-inspired Marièta. In Delhi is Yong’s Kitchen doing Naga fare, and Begam for Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine. Goa has Oliveto, and the Pan Asian Riverside at St Regis Goa; Água Cafe perched atop JW Marriott Goa; the cafe Fika; and Yaar, a neighbourhood bar doing modern Indian cuisine, situated within the state’s first Zostel. There’s Atelier V in Indore; Swinton House in Jaipur doing Indian food with a European twist.

Bengaluru’s newest breweries are KLING Brewery, and Prime Golf; in addition, there is Idylll doing regional food. There’s Ouro, reimagining classic European and Mexican cuisine; the coastal Ouzo by Fire; Chinese restaurant and dim sum place CHA; and Mumbai favourite Bastian makes it way to the city with Bastian Garden City.

Spirit Speak: A New Tequila Club; Sula Wine Now in a Can; Godawan wins Distiller of the Year

Over in Goa, Tulleeho launched the Tulleeho Tequila Club, an agave club seeking to educate the Indian spirits community on agave as a category, its different variants and brands, and its unique advantages in cocktails.

The drinks’ world has seen a series of new launches. Moet Hennessy India launched Glenmorangie's first Calvados cask finish, a 12-Year-Old small batch whisky. John Distilleries’ Paul John Whisky partnered with Avolta Duty-Free for an exclusive, limited edition, single cask release, available at the T2 Duty-Free of Kempegowda International Airport, Bengaluru starting May 30. Other new spirits include Nomad Oscuro Dark Rum; McDowell's & Co Distiller’s Batch Indian Single Malt; Sula Vineyards’ Chenin Blanc, Rosé Zin, and Red Zin now available in cans (they are set to open their first-ever tasting room outside its own premises, near Nasik Airport); Aer Gin, a collaboration between AER at Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai and Stranger & Sons; D’Yavol Vortex, a premium blended Scotch whisky; Indri Single Malt Indian Whisky, in partnership with Warner Bros. Discovery Global Consumer Products launched an exclusive edition, inspired by the Game of Thrones franchise, House of the Dragon (which includes House of Black and House of Green); and Ardbeg Spectacular is a limited-edition release — whisky aged in port casks — at Ospree Duty Free, Mumbai International Airport.

The newest brewing company is 12th Man Brewing, dedicated to sports fans, and selling canned beer in three variants, Hefeweizen, Indian Lager and Red Gose; available in Mumbai.

Godawan Artisanal Single Malt won Distiller of the Year, Sustainable Distillery of the Year, and Craft Producer of the Year at Icons of Whisky India 2024. Zoya Gin from Allied Blenders and Distillers Limited won the Campaign Innovator of the Year Award at the Icons of Gin India 2024. Pumori Pink Gin won a silver medal at London Spirits Competition, 2024, which also saw Godawan 100 crowned Single Malt Whisky of the Year. At the 2024 San Francisco World Spirits Competition, Greater Than’s Broken Bat won the ‘Best Gin in Asia’ award at the Gin Guide Awards and ‘Best in Class’ for Aged Gin; No Sleep Gin and Hapusa picked silvers; and London Dry got a Double Gold. John Distilleries’ Malhar gin (Classic Dry, and Citrus Forward) won silver medals at the ADI 2024 International Spirits Competition Awards.

In terms of pop-ups, Rockpool at W Goa hosted a month of bar takeover to celebrate Marriott Bonvoy's fifth anniversary. Bars/ bartenders that made their way to Goa included Luca Cinalli, Delhi’s Lair, Home and Sidecar, and Pune’s Cobbler and Crew. Toki Suntory Whisky, brought in bartender Shingo Gokan, known as one of the most influential mixologists of his generation is in town to curate an exclusive masterclass in Delhi and Bengaluru.

Maverick & Farmer launched new cold brews, blended with tender coconut water.

Joanna Lobo is an independent journalist from Goa who enjoys writing about food, her Goan heritage, the freelance life, and other things that make her happy. She’s also an editor at Goya. Follow her on @thatdoggonelady.

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