Step Inside India’s Most Unique Spirit Lab by The Good Craft Co.

The Flavour Lab by The Good Craft Co. (TGCC) is a one-of-a-kind experience that blends the science and art of spirits with India’s rich craft traditions. Led by industry experts, the tour takes you through four engaging zones, from the origins of spirits to innovative flavour experiments. Whether you're a spirit enthusiast or a curious beginner, TGCC promises an immersive journey into the world of craft spirits. 

Thank you to our partners at The Good Craft Co, for facilitating this editorial. This is a paid partnership with Diageo India.

The thought of braving weekday afternoon traffic to Whitefield wasn’t exactly at the top of my to-do list. But as I strolled through the campus of the Vydehi Institute of Medical Sciences and Research Centre (which, incidentally, also houses a hospital), it occurs to me that if ever there was a perfect cover for a speakeasy, this would be it. My destination? The Flavour Lab by The Good Craft Co. (TGCC), a Diageo experience centre. 

Is it a lab? An experience centre? A learning hub? It’s all this and more!

Vikram Damodaran, the Chief Innovation Officer at Diageo India, leads the charge at The Flavour Lab, curating the experience and hosting the weekly tours. The experience unfolds across four zones: the Entry Zone, the Academy, the Walkthrough, and the Bar & Fermentary. “The Flavour Lab is a first-of-its-kind experience where the science, art, and creativity behind spirits intersect. It’s a space where people can dive into the art of spirit-making and immerse themselves in the vast world of Indian craft spirits,” explains Damodaran.

At The Entry Zone, I’m immediately drawn into the world of flavours. I start with a refreshing ginger ale crafted by Payal Shah of Kobo Fermentary, right here at the fermentary. Damodaran’s vision for the space has taken over three years to bring to life; he emphasizing that it is rooted in the larger vision of fostering a sense of community around Indian craft spirits — a space to celebrate ingredients, artisans, and their unique journeys.

The Academy Zone feels like the ideal classroom for beginners like myself, whose spirit vocabulary includes words like ‘clarified’, ‘fat-washed’, and infused’, without actually knowing what they mean. Damodaran is passionate about championing the Grain-to-Glass philosophy, diving deep into the whisky-making process. At the centre of this learning zone is a functional copper pot — a true showstopper. For the uninitiated, a copper pot is traditionally used for whisky distillation.

What I especially love about this zone is how visually engaging it is. The informative elements don’t just teach — they stick with you, making them perfect for conversation starters or, in my case, spirited chats. One standout for me is The Real Spirits of India map. The nerd in me revels in learning unexpected facts: Did you know that in southern India, it’s not just coconut toddy but also fishtail palm toddy that’s widely consumed?

After the learning session, I head to The Walkthrough Zone, which, in my opinion, is one of the most fun zones after The Bar & Fermentary. Here, I get to relive my high school science lab days while exploring the intersection of research and craft. What’s fascinating is how seamlessly they have blended the experience centre into an actual, functional research facility. Walking through the space, Damodaran explains that the Diageo facility predates TGCC and was adapted for this purpose. And why this unusual location for an experience centre? Government regulations require the facility to be housed within a medical institution since it handles high volumes of spirit.

As we explore the zone, Damodaran shares insights into the extensive R&D behind creating a drink — from liquid to label — and it all starts right here. Engaging with the labs through simple, interactive tests using litmus strips, or guessing flavours by smell, brings back a nostalgic sense of discovery. And the micro-distillery on-site? It’s genuinely fascinating to see it in action.

The Living Wall of Flavours

Payal Shah in front of the Living Wall of Flavours

We exit the lab section, and it’s on to my favourite part of the tour. I’ve seen glimpses of Payal’s work on Instagram, so I’m curious to see what she’s created here. As I step inside, I’m greeted by the stunning sight of hundreds of ferment jars mounted on the wall. Payal is setting up a tasting table with a few jars already open, teasing the sensory feast ahead. While the other zones explore flavours conceptually and scientifically, this space is all about experiencing them in their most vibrant, tangible form — it’s truly the heart of The Flavour Lab.

Payal points out over 60 ferments on the wall, all crafted using seasonal and local ingredients. Having learned the basics of fermentation from her and experimented with countless hot sauces, I’m thrilled to see such a unique space in the city, pushing the boundaries of fermentation. After a quick tasting session, I can’t resist spending 15 minutes exploring the ferments in detail. Green tomato ferment, banana peel vinegar, bajji chillies in brine, Bangalore blue grapes, green mango in brine — the list is endless. I confess to Payal that I now want a living wall in my home.

Payal grins in her disarming way. This collaboration with TGCC was 18 months in the making. Along with her sister and chef, Candice Lock of Chinita, Payal carefully curated the flavours, microbes, and goals for these ferments. “It’s so rewarding to see people’s reactions when they reach this part of the tour,” she says. “Their eyes light up as they experience new flavours through the ferments.”

At any given time, the living wall features over 60 ferments, with seasonality, local produce, and emerging trends shaping what goes up. It’s an ever-evolving tribute to the art of fermentation.

The Wheel of Fortune Flavour

All those incredible flavours we sampled need to be understood and categorized, and that’s where The Flavour Wheel comes in. Positioned as a midpoint attraction between the fermentary and the bar, the interactive wheel offers a deeper dive into the world of Indian flavours. Payal explains that the wheel was created to describe unique Indian flavours that aren’t yet documented in traditional flavour wheels.

Here’s how I understood it: The innermost wheel focuses on broad flavour categories — sweet, fruity, masala, sour, herbal, and citrusy. The middle wheel breaks these categories down further; for example, “fruity” could refer to ripe or tropical, while “masala” could be chatpata, festive, or toasted.

The outermost wheel is where things get really exciting, diving into the specific ingredients that bring these flavours to life. I count 36 ingredients, from mosambi (sweet lime) to gotukola, a herb known for aiding with blood circulation. Green peppercorns and stone flower lichens contribute to the masala flavours, while kachampuli adds a vinegar-sour note.

Payal explains that while the wheel educates visitors on the flavours they’re experiencing, it also encourages them to explore different flavour combinations. That’s exactly what happens in most sessions, according to Damodaran. In fact, during our session, another journalist asked for chatpata-citrusy combo. Payal nodded, “Yes!” and nearly everyone at the table took a turn experimenting with the wheel. There’s something uniquely thrilling about playing the role of a mad scientist.

Magic Potions

The final stop of the tour brings everything full circle — all the knowledge, flavours, and experiences we’ve had so far come together at the bar. Here, Damodaran, Payal, Dr Kuldeep Agrawal (Head of Liquid R&D), and the star of the hour, mixologist Neil Alexander, unveil the real magic. The magic here are rare spirits from Diageo’s vaults and the research lab, along with cocktails crafted from both spirits and ferments.

Dr. Kuldeep walks me through three spirits: Indian Peated Single Malt Whisky, Indian Single Grain Whisky, and Indian Molasses Rum. I learn what “peated” means and how molasses rum is made from local sugarcane molasses, aged for five years in Indian sal wood vats. This aging process gives the rum a warm, spicy profile, something my fellow tourmates were quick to confirm.

"In Scottish whisky, the peat notes are upfront, but in Indian whisky, they are more subtle," explains Dr Kuldeep as he tops a glass of Indian Single Grain Whisky. Also, another interesting flavour is the buttery, creamy, fruit tones that come from using Indian rice to make the single-grain whisky. The rice is matured for five years in American White Oak casks that were used for bourbon, and it’s finished in Ex-cuvee Champagne casks. As Damodaran puts it, "The whole point of this tasting bar is to discover new flavours while also understanding the craftsmanship that goes behind the bottle."

Neil, a 20-year veteran in bartending and mixology, is “nothing short of a magician”. “Neil has taken the ferments to a whole new level by incorporating them into drinks. A lot of his innovative ideas come from mixing and matching these ferments, making the process very organic,” she says.

Mixologist Neil Alexander

A tasting of custom cocktails at the Flavour Lab

"For me, memories are key when I’m creating a drink," Neil explains. "I remember flavours from around the world and India. Finding the right ingredients is essential, but once you do, it’s about putting them in the right format to make sure the cocktail tastes perfect."

Neil’s memories, Payal’s ferments, and TGCC spirits all come together in the cocktails served during the tasting. The East India Company, a gin-forward drink, combines kasundi, gondhoraj, and pickled raw mango for a tangy, spicy kick. The Susegad brings together dukshiri, a sarsaparilla-infused feni, cafreal spices, and a finish of kachampuli caviar.

Damodaran tells later that over 250 participants have visited TGCC in the last 12 weeks, and “every interaction is unique.” He continues, “The goal of TGCC is not just to educate but to create a symbiotic environment for spirit makers and craftsmen to thrive. We want actual makers to come here and interact. The start-up culture here is experimental, and through co-creation, we can nurture that ecosystem of makers.”

As we exit the building, and Vydehi Institute, I’m still feeling the excitement of everything I’ve learned and the possibility of new flavours waiting to be discovered.

Sreepathy Paliath is a marketer, chef-in-training, professional cow spotter and chilli head.

Thank you to our partners at The Good Craft Co, for facilitating this editorial. This is a paid partnership with Diageo India.

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