The Changing Flavours of Goa

First the Portuguese, then the hippies, and now domestic tourism, have shaped culinary influences in Goa. Now, local delicacies like prawns balchao and pork sorpotel, stand cheek by jowl with saffron risotto and a Bohri thaal in Goa’s unique culinary landscape.

India’s 25th State, Goa, gained Independence in 1961, after four and a half centuries of Portuguese rule. Despite this, locals were content to eat home-cooked food, and at best, experimented with a few ingredients and recipes they learnt from the Portuguese — chorizo, caldeirada and feijoada. At the time, Goa did not have too many restaurants.

In fact, after the early backpackers (or hippies) of the 70s, it was only in the late 80s that Goa evolved into an international tourist destination. Goa’s natural beauty and tropical climate made it an easy favourite, and with the onset of chartered flights, tourists began to flock to Goa. 2016 -17 witnessed the arrival of almost one thousand international charter flights, with close 2 lakh travellers flying into Goa.

But that’s not all: In the last 15 years, domestic tourists have rediscovered Goa. Curiosity about Goa’s image, an idea of ‘western’ lifestyle and freedom, remains one of its biggest draws. From 6.8 lakh domestic tourists in 1985, to 68 lakh in 2017, foreign tourists now account only for 11% of the total number of visitors in the state. Increasing middle class mobility means these numbers have only been growing, and domestic patronage has transformed Goa’s six-month market into a year-round destination. The emphasis on domestic tourism as a major driver of growth is plain to see in both the National Tourism Policy, as well as in the state policy. The influx of visitors has slowed this year, given the pandemic, yet, Goa is gearing up to welcome tourists in what will be the ‘new normal,’ with masks, safety and hygiene protocols in place.

Sun, sand and surf apart, food too, has been a major contributor to Goa’s popularity. Nikhil Desai, Managing Director of the Goa Tourism Development Corporation, says, “Goa’s cuisine is unique, and draws tourists in large numbers, from both domestic and international destinations. Goan sweets and desserts like Bebinca and Dodol, made from local produce like coconut and cashew, are beloved by everyone.” Ambot Tik, Caldeirada, Racheiado, and Balchao, are some of the most well known Goan dishes that travellers are keen to try.

While restaurants like Bhatti Village, Mum’s Kitchen, Kokni Kanteen, Ritz Classic and Alfama keep Goan cuisine front and centre, Goa has historically catered to its tourists’ palates — from the early hippies, to Israelis and Russians, menus and ingredients were altered to accommodate new cuisines; often even written in foreign languages, for ease of communication. Gaurish Dhond, President, Hotel & Restaurant Association of Goa, Past President TTAG, concurs. “Local Goan cuisine will always remain a favourite amongst visitors. However, with the presence of global tourists, international cuisine has also entered Goa’s restaurant landscape. And similarly, the increase of domestic tourists have led to the mushrooming of many pure vegetarian restaurants, especially in this coastal belt.” 

Anisha Hassan of Saligao Stories, a restaurant housed in a 150-year-old ancestral home, and primarily serving Hyderabadi and Goan food, says, “I think Goa has the best restaurants, and people are spoilt for choice. We offer world cuisine, more than any other state, so yes, tourists come here for the food, and are willing to try all that Goa has to offer.”

From Ritu Dalmia’s Diva in Calangute to Bawmra Jap’s Bomras; Sarah Todd’s Antares to Olive Bar & Kitchen, Vagator; and Hello China, Baga to Gunpowder, Assagao, there are a host of restaurants that have been set up by entrepreneurs who aren’t from Goa. Dhond points out, “Locals tend to own restaurants serving Goan cuisine (with a few exceptions, of course). And a lot of non-locals have brought in variety of different world cuisines, giving both tourists and locals plenty to choose from.”

Gunpowder in Assagao, Goa

Chef Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar of Edible Archives, an ingredient-based restaurant in Anjuna, was keen to open a restaurant of her own in Goa. “People are definitely spending more money on eating out, and becoming more conscious about food that is nutritious; good for the body and soul. Perhaps that is why restaurants like ours are now actively sought after.” 

Rumana Roowala of Thaal Goa, is another restaurateur, who has made Goa her home. “I wanted to bring something different to Goa. Being Bohri myself, our traditional way of eating is close to my heart. I wanted to keep that tradition alive, and offer diners an opportunity to experience eating around the thaal.”

Non-locals may be successful here, but several long-time entrepreneurs too are thriving. In fact, they welcome the change in the recent tourist profile. Arpora-based Poonam Divkar who has been running a snack stall on Baga beach, selling bhajipao, vada pao, samosa, and mirchi, for the last 15 years, has seen the change first-hand. She tells us that Baga experiences the heaviest traffic, and previously, while this consisted primarily of foreigner tourists, it is now largely domestic visitors. This suits her just fine, she says, as they prefer her street food offerings, as compared to foreign diners.

While the locals have always had a soft spot for bhoje or bajiyas, and perhaps cherous pao, it has been the influx of tourists keen to sample local wares that have upped the ante. Domestic tourism has seen a spike in street food offerings; locals have embraced the entrepreneurial opportunity, and set up carts, trucks and hole-in-the-wall eateries, selling Ros omelette, cutlet pao, mirchi pakora, chilli fry and chicken cafreal.

Indian tourists unwilling to experiment with local Goan food, preferring instead to tuck into a familiar mutton or chicken biryani, also have options. Spots like Al Lazeez, The Awadh House, Biryani Palace, Zaiqa. Desai embraces the trend: “In Goa, the rising demand for biryani has come in recently, with the increase of Indian tourists. The mix of spices and Goan ingredients make the biryani here, more attractive dish. We should take it as a compliment.”

Rumana however, differs, “As far as I am aware, biriyani was never a staple amongst Goans. It is now popular among the non-Goans, who have settled here.” 

Goa has a reputation of being hard on vegetarians. They were told to expect puri-bhaji or, at best, a pao and paatal bhaji. Even dosa or idli-sambhar were rare finds. But those days are long gone. Vegetarianism is another trend that is on the rise in Goa, thanks to the influx of tourists from Rajasthan and Gujarat. Gaurish Dhond explains it as a simple demand and supply model. “The recent past has seen a huge increase in the flow domestic tourists, and vegetarian cuisine is a preferred food choice among the majority of them. Hence, we see an increase in the vegetarian restaurants.” From The Rasoda, offering Rajasthani fare, to Navratan and Bhojan, with Gujarati options, and Soul Booster and Café Tato’s, which offer global vegetarian cuisines, vegetarians now have their pick of the lot.

Also interesting to note is that diners are opting for vegetarian dishes in restaurants are not specifically focussed on vegetarian food. At Mahe, Chef Sandeep Sreedharan has created a 50% vegetarian menu, even though his restaurant offers modern coastal delicacies. Aubergine Rechaedo, and Crispy Okra with Pickles, are some of the most requested dishes on his menu. “It is a myth that Goa is all about non-vegetarian food. If you scratch the surface, you are in for a big surprise. Nowadays, more and more people are asking for vegetables in their diet, and slowly, creative vegetarian dishes are surfacing. Also, a lot of people moving to Goa from elsewhere, like to eat vegetarian food.”

Bawmra Jap of Bomras, says, “I find that healthy living, as well as sustainability, are contributing to the present wave of vegetarianism. As you probably already know, producing 1 kilo of meat requires something like 15,000 litres of water. If sustainability is important to you, it makes sense to simply change your diet. Even the fishing industry too is beyond revival, even though more eco-friendly fish farming is happening now.”

Goa has always willingly accommodated tourist needs. After all, tourism contributes close to 40% of Goa’s income, according to Dhond. While tourism may have introduced a plethora of new cuisines and restaurants to Goa, Goan cuisine is being celebrated and embraced by tourists like never before.

Banner image credit: Edible Archives, Goa.
Mini Ribeiro is an independent Food & Beverage writer, critic and columnist.

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