Lenten Recipes from Kerala: A Raw Mango Curry from Cochin
This Lenten season, Tresa Francis takes us into her Kerala Syrian Christian kitchen, which sees a variety of vegetarian dishes, elegant and simply cooked. Much of it features seasonal produce, and is prepared to satiate a meat-forward community as they abstain from fish and meat for 40 days. Find her other recipes here and here.
As a Kerala Syrian Christian, the Veliya Nombu (Great Lent), is given utmost importance in most homes, including mine. Avoiding meat and fish, primarily because they were considered a rich and luxurious indulgence, and focusing on vegetarian and simple food was mostly for self-discipline. A lot of focus was still put on flavour, however. Preparations that were not staples at homes, are made during this time; innovative recipes that could satiate a hardcore non-vegetarian from missing the meat and fish they are abstaining from.
A part of Lent was always celebrated in either of my grandparents' houses, which is why these dishes hold so many memories for me. This pachamanga curry was a tradition from my aunt’s house in Cochin, where we would visit after school exams. We would pluck fresh raw mangoes from the trees, and everyone took part in cutting them—though most of the pieces ended up in our bellies before making it into the curry!
Recipe for Pachamanga Curry
Ingredients
200 g raw mango (use a less sour variety such as Totapuri, Banganapalli, or Sindhoora)
2 tbsp coriander powder
1 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp methi powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
Salt, as per taste
4-5 thinly sliced shallots
2 slit green chillies
2 whole red chillies
1/2 tsp mustard seeds
1 sprig curry leaves
1 tbsp coconut oil
1½ cups coconut milk (freshly squeezed)
Method
Peel and cut the mango into small cubes. (Do not use the seed). Marinate the mango pieces with coriander powder, Kashmiri chilli powder, methi powder, and salt.
Heat coconut oil in a pan. Add mustard seeds and let them splutter.
Add sliced shallots, whole red chillies, slit green chillies, and curry leaves. Sauté until fragrant.
Add the marinated mango and gently stir to coat the pieces evenly.
Pour in coconut milk and mix well. If the consistency is too thick, add a little water.
Simmer for five minutes till the coconut milk boils and the mangoes have started to cook.
Remove from heat and serve hot with rice.
Tresa Francis is a lawyer-turned-chef who runs her restaurant, Coracle at BIC, Bengaluru, alongside a very successful catering business, Travancore Tasties. Her cooking is rooted in the Syrian Christian cuisine of her ancestors and the vibrant Malabar flavours of her Kerala upbringing.
Images by Saina Jayapal
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