Kerala-Style Sardine Fry with Coconut
Mahabelly is a beloved Kerala restaurant in Delhi, named after Mahabali, the lionized mythical king of the Kerala. Restaurateur Thomas Fenn expresses their vision in one cheeky line: “More Malayali food for more people.”
Last weekend, Mahabelly hosted a special sadya (more on that here) featuring several meat and fish items — a departure from the traditional vegetarian sadya, but very much in keeping with Kerala’s history of inclusivity, where non-vegetarian items are added to the meal, based on family and community tastes. This sardine fry recipe is unique in its treatment of ingredients as well as cooking technique.
If you’d like to book an onasadya, here’s a list of our favourite sadyas in the country.
RECIPE FOR KERALA SURIANI MEEN PEERA
Ingredients
½ cup shallots, sliced
2 green chillies, slit
1 teaspoon sliced fresh ginger
6 cloves garlic, whole with skin
2 cups grated fresh coconut
3 (1-inch) pieces kodampuli, soaked in water
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup water
1 teaspoon salt
500 g fresh sardines/anchovies, cut in half
1 tablespoon coconut oil
8 curry leaves
2 red chillies, torn in half
Method
Coarsely crush the shallots, green chillies, fresh ginger and garlic cloves using a mortar and pestle.
In a deep skillet, mix the crushed shallot mixture, grated coconut, kodampuli, turmeric, water and salt. Add the sardines and stir the mixture well to coat the fish.
Heat the coconut oil in a small skillet and add the curry leaves and red chillies. When the chillies turn dark red, remove from the heat and pour into the fish. Shake the pot to mix the chilli mixture into the curry, do not stir with a spoon.
Cover the skillet and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, until the water has almost evaporated. Set aside for 10 minutes before serving.
The Suriani Kitchen by Lathika George is one of the seminal cookbooks on Kerala Syrian Christian cuisine. You can purchase it here.
Image credits Aarohi Mehra.
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