Haakh: A Kashmiri Collard Green for all Seasons
Collard greens are a staple vegetable in almost every household in the Valley. This year, infestation has reduced the quantity of haakh in the market, resulting in soaring prices and a severe shortage of this Kashmiri staple, causing significant distress to Kashmiris, for whom this leafy green is an everyday staple. Shaizan Nadaf and Saqib Manzoor share two recipes to make collard greens the Kashmiri way.
Collard greens are a staple leafy green found in nearly every household in Kashmir.
The region boasts a diverse variety of collard greens, including kawdari haakh, khanyaar haakh, vaste haakh, sabz haakh, and heanz haakh. Additionally, numerous wild, self-seeding varieties flourish across Kashmir, such as pambh haakh, vapal haakh, vanpalak, kunna, and kralmonji.
Collard greens are abundantly grown in Kashmiri home gardens. “There are several varieties of haakh—vaste haakh, sabz haakh, and pambh haakh grow wild in our backyards. If you look closely, you’ll be amazed by the green carpet blanketing the earth,” says Saleema, a 55-year-old homemaker.
“Haakh is core to our food culture. Without it, our cuisine is incomplete,” says Saleema, who grows haakh in her kitchen garden.
Cultivated and consumed throughout the year, collard greens are a cornerstone of Kashmiri cuisine, from tangy winter pickles to light, refreshing spring preparations. They are both a practical meal for farmers in the fields and a delicacy served to guests at weddings. Collard greens pair beautifully with cheese (haakh chaman), meat (haakh maaz), and dried fish (gaadi haakh). Another classic preparation is daagith haakh, where the greens are pounded with spices to create a simple but unique dish.
“Back in the day, we made collard green pickles to share with neighbours and relatives,” recalls Khadija, an octogenarian who still enjoys farming and pickling. “Sometimes, we would sacrifice a hen to prepare koker te haakh (chicken and collard greens) or chaman te haakh (cheese and collard greens).” Her homemade collard green pickles are very popular in her hamlet.
Pickling is just one method of preserving haakh; sun-drying is another. The leaves are washed, spread out on clean mats or flat surfaces, and left to dry for several days. “We used to store dried haakh or pickles in earthen pots or pits dug into the ground to retain their flavor and freshness,” Khadija adds.
Beyond its culinary significance, collard greens are also valued for their medicinal properties. They are rich in Vitamin K and an excellent source of Vitamins A, C, B6, and manganese. Recent research has also highlighted their potent anti-cancer properties.
However, this year, an infestation drastically reduced the availability of haakh in the market, causing prices to soar and creating a severe shortage. This has deeply impacted local Kashmiris, for whom this leafy green is an irreplaceable daily staple.
RECIPE FOR HAAKH ACHAAR
Ingredients
1 kilo collard greens
3 spoonful of mustard seeds,
2 tbsp of carom seeds
2 tbsp coriander
8 chopped garlic
4 tbsp of chilli powder
3 tbsp of fenugreek powder
1 tbsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp of vinegar
3 tbsp salt
150 ml oil
Method
Wash and clean the collard greens well. Leave it to dry on a clean cloth, for 24 hours.
Grind carom seeds, mustard seeds, coriander, and garam masala. Keep the grind coarse. Add it to the haakh.
Add garlic, chopped green chillies, vinegar, salt and red chilli powder, to the taste.
Add oil and fenugreek powder, and mix well until the blend seeps into the haakh leaves.
Store in an air tight container, and let it rest for 15 days.
The pickle is ready.
RECIPE FOR COOKED HAAKH
Ingredients
1 bunch collard greens
2-3 tbsp oil
Method
Clean the collard green by scrutinizing for any white lines on leaves or any bugs. Make sure to rinse haakh twice to get rid of all soil or dirt. Salt may be added to water in the sink to kill any bugs attached to the leaves of haakh.
Put oil in pressure cooker. Add two cups of water and bring to a boil.
Now add the haakh and stir well.
Add salt, to taste, green or red chilies (dried chilies can be used), a pinch of baking powder.
Boil till the haakh is completely submerged in the water.
Pressure cook it for 3-4 whistles, then turn it off.
Open the lid immediately to retain green colour, and add a pinch of var (mixture of spices) if available.
Serve with white rice and green marchwangan chetni/chili relish.
Note: If you are cooking it in a pan, cook until haakh becomes tender.
Shaizan Nadaf and Saqib Manzoor are multimedia journalists based in Kashmir, covering topics pertaining to environment, culture, tech, food, health, education and more.
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