The Story of Bengaluru's Iconic MTR, the Original Udupi Hotel

MTR is one of Bengaluru’s oldest and most popular institutions, as beloved for its Art Deco facade as it is for its classic tiffin dishes like rava idli, dosas, uddin vade, and bisibelebath. On March 2, on their 100th anniversary, the restaurant launched a coffee table book, The MTR Story: A labour of Love by Pratima Chabbi, which charts the restaurant’s history, origins, and the people that have made it popular.
Below is an excerpt from the book.

Udupi’s cuisine is a dance of spices that tells a story of centuries-old traditions. Mustard seeds, curry leaves, cumin, turmeric and asafoetida add depth and vibrancy to dishes, balancing flavours to create memorable culinary experiences.

The Shivalli and Kota communities (Brahmin sub-castes) relied on their caste privilege to cook for other castes in the hierarchy. While some migrated to Madras (now known as Chennai), many from these two communities chose Bangalore (Bangalore’s name was officially changed to Bengaluru in November 2014, but references to times that precede this date will use the old name) where their native language, Kannada, was spoken, making migration easier. As a result, Bangalore became a prominent destination for Udupi Brahmins.

Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR) was formerly known as Brahmins’ Coffee Club. Image: Pratima Chabbi.

Bangalore saw a few Udupi hotels emerge in the 1920s—Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan, Janardhana Hotel and Brahmins’ Coffee Club—now known as Mavalli Tiffin Rooms (MTR). ‘Hotel’ in India also refers to an eatery that serves affordable food and drink but no accommodation. These eateries upheld so-called notions of purity and vegetarianism in the food they served and the methods of cooking that they adopted, thereby largely appealing to the caste sensibilities of Brahmins.

Since 1980, Natraj has sold newspapers and magazines outside MTR on Lalbagh Road.

Such establishments were particularly successful amongst customers who preferred caste-based separation in dining areas. At the same time, this exclusivity, rooted in the belief in ritual purity, sparked protests in Madras, which also had a few Udupi hotels. The Dravidian leader Ramaswami Naicker, also known as Periyar, led numerous campaigns against orthodox practices and the segregation of diners based on caste. Periyar was also a strong supporter of the Self-Respect Movement, founded in 1925 by S. Ramanathan, which sought to achieve Bendekayi (Okra) social equality for those oppressed by the caste system in the Madras Presidency (present-day Tamil Nadu).

While protests were less impactful in Bangalore, the pressures were still felt. Around the same time, MTR changed its name from Brahmins’ Coffee Club to Mavalli Tiffin Rooms, after the neighbourhood in which it was situated, signalling an effort towards caste inclusivity, at least amongst its customers. Over time, political activism and legal changes encouraged more open and inclusive dining and reduced more apparent forms of segregation. Notably, hotels bearing the name Brahmin still exist in Bengaluru, but separate dining areas within them have been completely eradicated.

As Udupi hotels grew and expanded into larger towns and cities, many started serving North Indian and Chinese dishes alongside their traditional fare.

The thali dishes are loaded in steel buckets for service.

MTR’s thali offers a variety of 21 dishes.

Since these cuisines were beyond the repertoire of most South Indian Brahmin cooks, cooks from other communities were given new job opportunities. Also, succeeding generations of Brahmins began to pursue careers in corporate and other fields, and restaurant owners had to become more flexible in their hiring practices.

Srinivas SK, 47, began his journey at MTR as a cleaner, in 1998, and transitioned to the kitchen as a cook. Srinivas has since become one of the main cooks, mastering every MTR dish.

Putte Gowda began his journey at MTR as a cleaner in 2005. In 2012, he transitioned to being an idli cook. Now, he also prepares coffee and helps shape dumroot.

Raghavendra Madhyastha who joined MTR in 2006, is affectionately known as a guru (teacher) in the kitchen. Here, he is with his junior cook, Likith J.

Today, in Bengaluru, South Indian eateries can be found every 100 metres. These spots provide quick stops for a plate of idli-chutney, refreshing coffee or hearty meals with anna, rasam, sambhar and palya from a set menu. The eateries vary in size, from cosy hole-in-the-wall places to larger venues with standing tables and establishments that offer spacious dining areas and service. The understated décor often features photos of the founders, gods and goddesses at the entrance, above the cashier. The interior is marked by bare walls and floors, echoing lively customer conversations. The food is served in melamine or stainless-steel crockery layered with banana leaves to symbolise tradition. Depending on the eatery, cutlery may be set out on the counters where guests collect their food or at the dining tables. The service is casual, efficient and practical. The kitchen is usually situated at the rear of the restaurant, where the cooks and their assistants are shielded from the diners. However, many restaurants today have open kitchens, and customers can see the cooks flipping dose or steaming a new batch of idli

.From the 1920s to now, Udupi hotels have become a cherished part of Bengaluru’s fabric, enriching the city’s food landscape with their presence. They are celebrated destinations for locals and a must-visit for curious travellers. Whether you are looking for a warm bowl of rasam, the perfect crispy dose, or a soothing cup of filter coffee, Udupi restaurants deliver with heart and hospitality.