FeaturesGoyaFebruary 17, 2022

An Ode to Indian 'Mix Veg'

FeaturesGoyaFebruary 17, 2022

Read ‘mix veg’ on any restaurant menu, and no doubt an image of pre-boiled unseasonal veggies dunked in a nondescript gravy comes to mind. But ask a homecook, instead. It is unlikely they will know the dish ‘mix veg’, but instead, they will have splendid recipes that combine seasonal vegetables using uniquely regional styles of cooking to produce a dish quite unlike the mix veg you are thinking of.

Late one evening, I opened the front door to my husband holding out a parcel wrapped in newspaper. On the road back to Mumbai from Vapi, he’d passed a two kilometre stretch dotted with shacks selling just one seasonal delicacy of southern Gujarat, Ubadiyu.

Unlike its more popular (and commercial) cousin, Undhiyo which has similar vegetables but a more elaborate masala, Ubadiyu is inaccessible to city folk because of its cooking method, which requires wide open spaces. A combination of root vegetables like sweet potato, purple yam, potatoes, surti papdi and sometimes even brinjal, mixed with spices, it is placed in an earthen pot called the ‘matla’. The matla is then sealed with a weed called burandu (that lends ubadiyu its distinct aroma), then inverted and placed into a hole in the ground. A fire is lit over it, as the vegetables cook below. Ubadiyu is a flavorful and super spicy meal on its own, generally accompanied by a spicier, freshly ground green chutney, and a calming chaas to wash it down.

It got me thinking about the idea of combining seasonal and regional veggies, and how that ubiquitous dish we see on restaurant menus, mix veg (potatoes, peas, cauliflower and carrots dunked in a non-descript red or yellow gravy), has no relation to this. The rich culinary diversity in India lends itself to various combinations of vegetables in different parts of the country. The season, palette, and culture come together to make very unique dishes.

Undhiyu, ubadiyu and popti (from the Aagri community of Maharashtra) celebrate the fresh harvest of the season. Then there are ceremonial recipes that celebrate the onset of spring; Bhogichi Bhaji from Maharashtra and Karnataka’s Gijji immediately come to mind; they use fresh produce but hold special significance of the day on which they are made.

Bhogichi Bhaaji prep | Richa Chitgopekar

A Rushichi Bhaji from Maharashtra celebrates Rushi Panchami with seasonal produce of the monsoon, like Rushi or Colocasia leaves. Despite being a celebratory recipe, it is frugal – in that it signifies using non-farmed vegetables i.e. those grown in one’s own backyard, or foraged. Similarly, Aamat, a mix veg from Chattisgarh features wild assorted vegetables from the monsoon, typically bamboo shoots.

Each of these recipes have a unique ingredient or cooking style characteristic to its region. Though many a times the precise recipe or vegetables differ between families in the same community, there are certain ingredients that represent the dish, or some strict no-nos. For instance, one can’t make an Undhiyo without the methi gate; and Ghanto from Orissa probably is the only mix veg that uses sprouts. Habisa Dalma, a specialty Dalma from Orissa, prepared in the month of Kartik, uses only indigenous vegetables and must have the seasonal Aau or Elephant Apple for tartness, and does not have turmeric. One celebratory mix veggie made during Ganesh Chaturthi, the Khatkhate of the Saraswat Brahmin community in Goa, is distinguished from the other coconut-based dishes by the use of ‘teppal’ – the Indian equivalent of Sichuan pepper.

The mix veg dishes in the southern part of India are dominated by coconut, but each state (and even each region), has its own style of cooking. Common ingredients are coconut and curd: the popular Aviyal has long cut vegetables and is relatively dry, while the Palakkad special, Raskalan, has chunky vegetables and is soupy. The breakfast mix veg dishes of Kurma and Sagu generally use potato liberally.

I have known a few mix veg dishes from Northern India but there are few that stand out. The Sindhi Kadhi, more diasporic than regional, features the iconic cluster beans, along with other vegetables in a slurry of besan ,and Sai Bhaji which is a medley of mixed greens and vegetables. And then there are the recipes that feature a specific number of ingredients. Annakut ki Sabzi, popular in Uttar Pradesh, is a prasad mix veg featuring 56 ingredients – vegetables, fruits, spices and some dals, on Govardhan Pooja, the day after Diwali, marking the onset of winter.

I love the way Bengalis combine vegetables. Ground, boiled, mashed; roasted, fried, curried; there is a mix veg for every occasion, every vegetable, every style of cooking. There is the everyday Chorchori, which I am told is a way to use up all leftover vegetables, and the not-so-coveted parts of fish. There are seasonal ones like Shukto, and there are ceremonial ones like Gota Sheddho. I happened to be at a friend’s house for lunch on Sheetal Sashthi, and her mother-in-law introduced me to Gota Sheddho. She had stories about Shashthi, the goddess of fertility, held in high esteem by the Ghoti womenfolk of Bengal: Sheetal Shashthi, the ‘cold sixth’ is a day of Arandhan, which means no cooking. The food has to be cooked a day before and eaten cold. The bhog of the Sheetal Shashthi should mainly consist of Bhaeja Bhaat or wet rice and Gota Sheddho. Gota means is made with whole Kali Dal (or sometimes whole moong dal as well), and an odd number of vegetables. Generally, 5 different vegetables and taken, each in the quantity of six, The beauty of this preparation lies in that the vegetables are not peeled, cut or broken. All the vegetables are cooked whole with the dal, typically without salt. When served, it is with a topping of mustard oil. Whole vegetables, simple flavours, and a sparse but elegant meal are my first memories on this wonderful mix veg.

Do not be fooled into thinking this is a comprehensive list. Hardly. It is just the beginning of an exploration into how diverse and rooted mix veg could truly be. The climate, local produce, cooking styles and festive occasions come together to create variations on this wonderful gem of Indian cuisine. They are so very accommodating of personal tastes and the availability of ingredients, while still retaining their identity.

Richa Chitgopekar is a food enthusiast who likes to explore the similarities and contrasts in everyday home food in different parts of the country.

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