A Misal Trail Through Pune

Kshipra Bhat explores Pune’s historic misal eateries, and writes about the history of this dish, so beloved in the city.

Misal was invented to serve workers a quick, nutritious and energy-filled mid-day snack. With time, misal’s popularity grew and Maharashtra started serving it as an all-day meal. Today, it is not only eaten as a mid-day snack but is popular as a  breakfast dish, a quick lunch or a filling dinner. In its most basic form, the misal is an assembly of ingredients sourced locally and tastes delicious. But of course, every part of Maharashtra does the misal its own way; it tastes different in every city across Maharashtra. In fact, in Pune, varied iterations of misal are found within a single city.

Misal at Shri Krishna Bhuvan

Vaidya Upahar Gruha

Several tea-houses and corner shops serve misal with their own method of preparation. But many believe that Vaidya Upahar Gruha is the oldest operational misal restaurant in Pune. It has been serving misal for over 120 years. The current owner, Deepak Joshi, the 4th generation, is very proud and enthusiastic about the legacy of the place. “It all started in 1910 when my great grandfather, Raghunath Ramchandra Vaidya, was inspired to start an eatery to serve breakfast to workers in the then market area early in the morning. Misal began as a dish made from leftovers, but we started preparing a fresh blend of potato bhaji, matki usal (cooked sprouts) and cooked pohe topped with rassa, thin pohe chivda and shev to serve as a one pot meal. As per tradition, we operate between 7am-11.30pm and 3pm-7pm except on Saturdays and two weeks during Holi,”says Joshi. The uniqueness is in the colour of the curry, which is green due to use of fresh green chillies, coconut, garlic, ginger coriander, green tomatoes and tamarind as opposed to the red ones at most of the other misal eateries. Vaidya doesn’t serve a slice of lime with the misal as tamarind gives a rich tanginess to the rassa. 

Address: 676, Bagade Road, Budhwar Peth, Pune, Maharashtra 411002

Menu at Vaidya Upahar Gruha 
Photo credit: Som Koti

Shri Kala Snacks Centre

 Aaba Misalwale or Shri Kala Snacks Centre is another hole in-the-wall serving up delicious misal in Rasta Peth. From humble beginnings to one of the most sought after misal places in Pune, Aba’s journey has been remarkable. There are no servers, the seats are lined up in rows facing the wall. This one is strictly for misal enthusiasts who want to eat good misal without the frills. Their misal is a mixture of farsan, pohe, thin pohe chivda to which rassa of mixed spouts is added. Served with spicy tarri, chopped onions, a slice of lemon and a pair of cushiony pavs on the side.

Address: Gangotri Apartment, Porwal Metallica, Rasta Peth, Pune, Maharashtra 411011

Bedekar Tea Stall

 Pune is famous for its historic misal joints and one such eatery is Bedekar Tea Stall in Narayan Peth. It is now run by the third generation of the Bedekar family. Arguably Pune’s most legendary and popular misal eatery, long queues greet you outside the 73-year-old establishment. Now, Punekars pride themselves on having a balanced palate — sweet, pungent and tangy flavours make any dish ‘assal Puneri’. Bedekar tea stall is no exception. The misal here is slightly sweet, with a lingering pungency that hits after a few bites. However, the kokum sharbat served here is the perfect beverage to tackle the heat. It is very hard to find seating here, but the wait is worth it. On fasting days, they also serve delicious upvas misal.

Address: 418, Munjabacha Bole Road, Narayan Peth, Pune, Maharashtra 411030

Interiors of Bedekar Tea Stall
Photo credit: Pranav Walgude

 Kata Kirr

Although most of the iconic misal restaurants are situated in the old part of Pune, widely known as the Peth area, there is one eatery outside the old city, called Kata Kirr, in Karve Nagar near Cummins College. The chain has six outlets across Pune and is undoubtedly the spiciest misal in the city. The preparation is similar to other places, but their secret curry or sample, as it is called, is made with a secret recipe, which helps the misal stand out.

Address: 23/11, Cummins College Road, Deep-Jyoti colony, Hingne Budrukh, Karve Nagar, Pune, Maharashtra 411052

Shri Krishna Bhuvan

It is mid-Sunday morning. My father has just brought home misal — a piping hot, spicy lentil curry — in a large steel container along with extra tarri along with  potato bhaji, farsan, shev, slices of lime, and finely chopped onions in a reusable cotton bag. The aroma of the misal wafts through the house. As the youngest in the family, I hurriedly lay the table for the whole family and eagerly begin tucking in the most awaited Sunday special breakfast of the week.

 It is this memory that comes to me when I’m surrounded by the clatter of dishes and the familiar aroma of freshly-prepared misal at Shri Krishna Bhuvan. Established in 1941, this eatery is located in the famous street market of Tulshibaug. For those who prefer their misal mildly spiced, this is the outlet to visit. The unmissable coconut-y tarri or sample, as they fondly call it, made from red chillies, onions, tomatoes with hints of ginger, garlic, is served with a heady combination of cooked pohe, batata bhaji, pohe topped with chivda and shev, along with sliced white bread — just what you need to kick start a day. Some detest cooked pohe (flattened rice) in their misal, but this still remains one of the most beloved misals in Pune. Don’t forget to get a glass of refreshing buttermilk to wash down the delicious meal. 

Address: 1164, Shanipar Mandai Road, Tulshibaug, Budhwar Peth, Pune, Maharashtra 411002

Kshipra Bhat is a freelance Travel and Food writer based in Pune, India whose work has been featured in Outlook Traveller magazine, Travel+Leisure magazine, and Lonely Planet amongst others.

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