Nakuppi is the Definitive Flavour of Meitei Cuisine

Chinese chives, or nakuppi, play a defining role in the Meitei cuisine of Manipur. Ruby Singha explores the flavours of this unique herb, sharing a recipe that allows its true flavour potential to shine.

How easily happiness begins by   
dicing onions. A lump of sweet butter   
slithers and swirls across the floor   
of the sauté pan, especially if its   
errant path crosses a tiny slick
of olive oil. Then a tumble of onions.

The poem ‘Onions’ by William Matthews got me thinking about the key role of chives in Meitei cuisine. Although the exploratory process of the poem hints at metaphorical flavour, the onion is omnipresent through the poem. I couldn't help but think about Chinese chives: the main maroi (or herb) that lends its definitive, singular flavour to Meitei food is maroi nakuppi — Chinese chives, or yenam.

There are two kinds of maroi used in a Manipuri kitchen — maroi nakuppi (Allium odorosum), and maroi napakpi (Allium hookeri). Maroi nakuppi is used for the ‘chhonk’ in almost every curry. In fact, most Meitei households in the village have a small patch of space beside the courtyard or in the vegetable garden, dedicated exclusively to chives.

Maroi nakuppi cultivation is extensive in Manipur, farmed on a large scale in many districts in the valley.

Some of the most beloved dishes that feature chives are maroi thongba (a stir fry), nakuppi fritters, paknam, where vegetables are cooked with gram flour, and steamed, and erombas or chutneys made with fermented fish. In certain erombas, the addition of slightly fried maroi nakuppi and dried red chillies enhances the flavour greatly. In paknams, fresh nakuppi as well as napakpi (or leek) is used in the mix, before the paknam is steamed. In most curries, chives take on the key role of herbs like onions or garlic.

Recently, I stumbled upon dried maroi nakuppi. Jurmala Sarungbam of ChingTam, selling indigenous foods, told me that they source nakuppi from the farmers of the Imphal East district, which are then cleaned, cut, sun-dried and then packed for retail.

This is a recipe for maroi thongba, chives curry cooked with the Meitei napakpi bori, lentil and chives fritter. In this curry, chives are the hero ingredient and not merely a substitute for onions or garlic.

Chives are grown extensively in Manipur.

The herb adds unique flavour to Meitei food.

Cheiraoba is a celebration of new year in Manipur, and is a feast of dishes, many of which include chives.

RECIPE FOR MAROI THONGBA WITH NAPAKPI BORI

Ingredients
1 small mapun (bundle) of maroi nakuppi (when chopped, it should be a full cupped hand)
2 bay leaves
Fenugreek seeds, a pinch
Asafoetida, a pinch
1 tsp jeera
2-3 dried red chillies
2 dried pieces of Heiribob (Citrus macroptera)
1 tsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp besan
1 whole potato, chopped
10 napakpi bori chunks (chives and lentil fritters)

Method
Heat oil in a pan and fry the bori. Fry the dried red chillies and set them aside.
Heat 3 tablespoons of oil in another pan. To this, add bay leaves, a bit of fenugreek seeds and jeera.
Add in the chopped maroi nakuppi, and after a minute, toss in the chopped potatoes.
Add the dried heiribob bits, a pinch of turmeric powder, jeera powder and asafoetida. You could add a bit of besan if you like, for a thick consistency.
Pour in two to three cups of hot water. Allow it boil for a few minutes, and then add the fried bori, the red chillies, and salt. If you love thangjing (fox nuts), you could also add that during this step.
Maroi Thongba is ready when the potatoes are well-cooked and the curry comes to a simmer. Chop some coriander leaves and add in the curry.

Always on the move, Ruby Singha grew up in Assam and is a writer of fiction, poetry and of all things food.

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