Sukha Meat is a Dried Meat Specialty from the Johar Valley
Sukha meat is a traditional delicacy that has been an essential part of the highlanders’ way of life, finds Ashish Verma.
Johar Valley, nestled high in the Himalayas, came into existence largely due to the influence of Tibet. For centuries, Tibetans crossed the formidable 18,000 ft passes during waves of human migration, and some eventually settled in this region across the border. With them, they brought their unique traditions, culture, and ways of life, deeply impacting the food, customs, and daily practices of the people of Johar.
One significant aspect of this shared heritage is the role of sheep, known as hunkara in Tibetan. Sheep were central to survival in these harsh, high-altitude regions. Not only were they a vital source of wool, milk, and meat, but they also played a key role in trade across the Himalayan passes. The traditions around hunkara were deeply influenced by Tibetan practices, with sheep being seen not only as livestock but as an essential part of life, integrated into the rhythms of survival and sustainability.
Preserving meat through drying methods, like in the case of sukha meat echoes Tibetan techniques of food preservation in an unforgiving climate
The recipe involves drying meat naturally in the cold, dry air of the high altitudes.
The food of Johar, too, bears the mark of Tibetan influence. Preserving meat through drying methods, like in the case of sukha meat echoes Tibetan techniques of food preservation in an unforgiving climate. The recipe involves drying meat naturally in the cold, dry air of the high altitudes, followed by smoking it to lock in its unique flavors. The highlanders of Johar, like their Tibetan ancestors, make use of every resource, ensuring nothing is wasted, and rely on sheep as a primary source of sustenance during long winters.
The traditions and culinary heritage passed down from Tibetan settlers continue to thrive in Johar, reminding us of the enduring connection between these two lands and the shared history that binds them.
The dish is hearty, flavorful, and nourishing, perfect for the cold winter months.
Indiara Devi prepping ingredients for sukha meat.
Indiara Devi’s Recipe for Sukha Meat
Ingredients
1 kg goat meat, roughly cut into small cubes
2 liters of water
2 medium-sized potatoes, roughly chopped
1 medium radish, roughly chopped
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried red chilies
3-4 cloves of garlic, crushed
Salt to taste
2 tbsp mustard oil
Method
Begin by roughly cutting the fresh goat meat into small cubes. Hang the meat in a sunny, airy spot, where the cold, dry air of the high altitudes can dehydrate it naturally. This process can take several days.
Once partially dried, string the cubes together and allow them to hang in a smoky area, such as near a wood fire, to absorb the rich, smoky flavor.
After the meat has dried completely, you can cook it when needed.
In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat two tablespoons of mustard oil. Add cumin seeds and dried red chilies, letting them sizzle for a few seconds. Add the crushed garlic and sauté until golden. Stir in the turmeric powder and coriander powder, mixing it well with the spices.
Add the dried sukha meat to the pot, allowing it to sear lightly in the oil and spices. Pour in two liters of water, then add the roughly chopped potatoes, radish, and salt.
Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat and let it simmer for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the meat has rehydrated and is tender.
Serve sukha meat hot, accompanied by rice or local bread.
Ashish Verma is a host, a mountaineer and owner of The Nandastone homestay, who loves to walk the mountains talk, document and revive cultures of the Himalayas through foods.
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