100 Ways to Eat a Dhokla
Chaitali Patel on the versatility of the dhokla, Gujarati cuisine’s beloved poster child.
If a dish were to define a community, then dhokla would certainly be a top contender, as far as Gujaratis are concerned. Light, spongy dhokla is made steaming a fermented batter of rice, lentils, millets, semolina, or a combination of these ingredients, into a delicate, fluffy cake. It's a popular dish across the state of Gujarat, and can be eaten for breakfast, as a snack, or even as the main meal.
Growing up in Chennai, we ate dhoklas occasionally, but it was first choice for the dish my eldest sister would make as her entry in a cooking competition. My mother and aunt were confident that making a dhokla sandwich would ensure she cooked her way to the trophy. There were intense discussions around how many different coloured layers were to be made, eventually sandwiched with a bright green coriander chutney. I was barely a teenager at the time, and didn't understand the fuss, but the flurry of passionate activity stayed with me.
The difference between dhokla and khaman
Outside Gujarat, dhokla is popularly known as khaman dhokla, although they are two different dishes. Dhoklas can be made from rice, lentils, semolina or millets, whereas khaman is made with besan or chickpea flour. In terms of texture, khaman is lighter and more pillowy. Sheetal Bhatt, a social development professional, who documents the native foods of Gujarat on her blog theroute2roots says, “The most common kind of dhokla eaten in urban areas are made with rice, chana dal (split Bengal gram) and a small amount of toor dal (split pigeon peas).” In southern Gujarat, idada or white dhokla made with rice and urad dal (split black gram), topped with black pepper. Khatta dhokla, vaati dal na dhokla and moong dal na dhokla are some of the other kinds commonly eaten.
According to late food historian, KT Achaya, a similar dish called dukkai is first mentioned in 1068 AD, in Jain literature, and the term dhokla appears in the Varanaka Samuchaya in AD1520. In his book, A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food, he notes “A 2:1 mixture of rice flour and besan flour is fermented overnight with curd, and steamed in slabs, which are then cut into pieces and dressed with fresh coriander leaves, fried mustard seeds and shredded coconut.”
Part of Gujarati farsan, or dishes eaten along with the main meal, dhoklas have evolved with changing times and tastes. “Traditionally, dhoklas were made with a lot of grains, including makkai (corn) or bajra. Every part of Gujarat, almost every household, had their own version, using a different proportion of grains and lentils to make the flour. There are ones made with three dals, five dals, bhaaji (spinach), marcha (chilli), chora methi (split cow peas and fenugreek leaves), green peas, and one old recipe that uses pav,” says Sheetal.
Sev khamani, a twist on khaman, is a popular street food eaten in Surat. It likely evolved as a way of reusing leftover khaman. Sheetal explains, “There are two ways of making it. In one, chana dal batter is steamed, crumbled, tempered with garlic and topped with pomegranate, coconut and sev. In the other, soaked chana dal is ground into a coarse paste, then cooked in oil, almost like a halwa. Spices are added at different stages of cooking. This second version is oil-heavy and difficult to swallow.”
Another breakfast dish found in Surat is the Surti locho. Steamed batter is scooped out and served with a variety of toppings like onions, peanuts and sev. In Gujarati, locho means mistake and it's likely that the dish was born out of a batch of khaman gone wrong.
It's all about the process
Given the hot and dry weather conditions found in Gujarat, grains and lentils are washed, sun dried and then ground into a coarse flour used to make dhoklas. To this other ingredients are added and then the batter is left to ferment. It's the fermentation of the batter that elevates the dish. “While nowadays fruit salt or ENO is commonly used to make dhoklas spongy, traditionally, the batter was fermented using buttermilk made from churning butter, which gave it a rich taste. It's an important step that increases the shelf life of dishes,” adds Sheetal.
Nutritionist Kavita Devgan, a dhokla fan says “Fermented food paves the way to a healthier gut by restoring the proper balance of bacteria, and also helps better absorb the nutrients we are consume. Plus, they are easy to digest, and are teeming with enhanced micronutrients.” She includes dhokla in her diet as they are versatile, light on the stomach, high in protein and easy to make.
Once fermented, the batter is poured into plates and steamed in a brass vessel called dhokaliyu or dhoklapatra. It's essentially a big vessel with a lid that has ridges on the inside on which the plates are placed. Sheetal says that dhoklas may or may not be tempered. According to her, steaming hot dhoklas are also commonly eaten with a drizzle of kaachu tel (raw oil), which is usually peanut or sesame oil, along with a sprinkling of methia no masaalo – a Gujarati pickle masala. Like tempering, eating the dhoklas with chutney is also optional. Come summer, idada is served with fresh keri no ras (mango pulp).
The many avatars of dhokla and khaman
Winter weddings across Gujarat often have a live dhokla counter where guests are served fresh, piping hot dhoklas, made the traditional way. “They may have doodhi (bottle gourd) or methi added, and are served with a drizzle of oil and methio masala. Fermented with buttermilk, there is a strong sour note,” adds Sheetal.
Das Khaman started by Pitambardas Kanjibhai Thakkar in 1922, has firmly established itself as a name to reckon with as far as khaman goes. With 8 outlets across Ahmedabad, they cater to the changing tastes of the city while sticking to the age-old way of making the dish. From plain, curd, black pepper khaman, to unique combinations such as green fry khaman, where the batter is made using mint and coriander gravy, there's something for everyone. Apart from their regular dishes, they offer unusual wedding specials like pizzoram, a khaman-pizza!
Chaitali Patel is a freelance writer based in Dubai. Writing about Gujarati food is her new-found passion.
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