Jackfruit Tacos with Cumin and Coriander

The jackfruit has become a worldwide culinary sensation, founded on the virtue of incredible versatility.

Summers were spent in my grandfather's villa in Trivandrum. Kerala always had a calming influence on me.  It meant a break from strict time tables, school bells and narrow benches with other teenagers. Tucked away on a hill far from the street sounds of traffic and honking, in the backyard of our home, were two tall jackfruit trees. A man would come by often, climbing high up the tree with an axe firmly held in his hand, as my grandfather stood a little distance away, watching. They both yelled for me to stand back, and thud, thud, thud, the fruits fell one after another, rolling to the ground. Cautiously, I stepped closer to have a better look. It looked like a giant football, but to my dismay, it was too heavy to move, protected by spikes and smelling slightly funky.

But my grandfather's delight made up for it. The glee on his face was plain to see; he chuckled as he cut open the thick outer layer and popped out a yellow pod. I watched him bite into a bright yellow bulb. I followed his lead, but I was unimpressed. I remember thinking that mangoes will always be the sweet fruit of summer for me! Grandfather slowly trailed behind me asking me if I wanted one more, baffled at my lack of interest.

As I grew older, I realized that this was as affirmative of the identity of this southern coastal strip as the coconut. Jackfruit's natural habitat is preserved not through estates or plantations, but through trees, homes and honest Malayali pride. In spite of being regarded as a backyard disaster the jackfruit has created waves in the food industry. Native to south-west India, it is an un-farmed and un-harvested pest plant belonging to the mulberry family (Moraceae). For tourists, it’s leathery and rock-solid spiky shell is a novel sight, but its smell often scares away first-timers. 

Years passed, and I moved out to the States. Within no time, my food habits were re-tailored as I watched variations in food culture. For some, no meal was complete without meat. For college students living on their own, meals simply meant large portion sizes of dense carbohydrates and sugars, and almost no fresh produce. From the eyes of an immigrant, is was often appalling. Menus listed one vegetarian item for almost twenty meat and seafood options. It was quite literally the opposite in my mother's kitchen! The same narrative played out in culinary school. The focus of the syllabus was meat-centric. At this point, I was furthest away from the jackfruit and almost anything herbivore. But that was all about to change — a whirlwind of new ideas took root — plant-based, pescatarian, gluten-free and tree-nut allergies all became common jargon. For some, it was severe conditions, and for others, a deliberate choice of consuming healthy and balanced meals. In India, of course, religion and culture continued to played a significant role in what we ate. But there, creative entrepreneurs were now running whole businesses on of juice bars, vegan-centric cafés and outlets. It wasn’t long before found myself eating a jackfruit taco in downtown Vancouver.

The jackfruit had become a sensation. Its versatility was its biggest asset. The jack could be grilled, braised, stewed, and can act as meat substitute. It greedily soaks up whatever flavours are added to it. Many Michelin star-restaurants used the jack in vegetarian tasting menus. Fast food restaurants offered jackfruit pizzas, stews and enchiladas. In Bangkok, I dug into an unripe Jackfruit main course as part of a tasting menu: first braised and then grilled, served with an assortment of pickles, over jackfruit-infused tortillas, the fleshy fruit pulled apart easily with a fork, and soaked up all the incredible flavours of the braise.

The trees in my grandfather’s backyard, the yellow spiky fruit, taught me a lifelong professional lesson. As chefs we have to take into account what produce is in season, geographical location, clientele at the establishment, which farmer is growing what, food costs, etc. We can't admire one ingredient and hate the other. An ugly duckling that was under the radar for centuries shines bright in the culinary world for its sheer versatility. Experimentation, trial and error, tasting and going back to the drawing board are all part of the job.

RECIPE: JACKFRUIT TACOS

Ingredients
Jackfruit Pulp
920g ripe jackfruit
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2 onions, sliced
10 g ginger
2 green chilli
3 bay leaves
1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp cumin powder
1 tsp kasoori methi
1 tbsp degi mirch
4L water
Salt, to taste

Yogurt Sauce
100g Greek yogurt
1/2 tsp cumin powder
1/2 tsp coriander powder
5 leaves of chiffonade mint

Relish
100 g diced onion
100g diced red peppers
50g sugar
20g cider vinegar
Salt, to taste

Method
Braising Liquid
To cut the jackfruit, use a sharp knife to remove the outer rind. Separate the fibrous layers from the jackfruit pulp and remove the seeds right after. Set aside in a large bowl, season with salt and pepper.

Julienne the onions and crush the garlic. In a large pot, sauté for some colour and throw in ginger and chilies. Add water and throw in the bay leaves and sugar. Place the jackfruit bulbs and cover with a lid.

Let it boil and turn down the heat. Add the spices and allow it to simmer for 2 to 3 hours. Take it off the heat and allow the fruit to sit in the braising liquid as it cools.

For the pulp, strain over chinois and slice julienne. Sear in a pan and reserve for later.

To make the relish, dice onions and red peppers. Add olive oil and cook down the two. Add salt, sugar and cider vinegar to taste.

Slice onions in to rings and fry in oil till golden brown.

For the yogurt sauce, use greek yogurt. Whisk together the spices and fold in chiffonade mint.

Taco Fillings
Jackfruit Pulp
Red Pepper and onion relish
Fried onion
Sliced fresh tomatoes
Fresh mint
Yogurt sauce
Shredded cheese

To Assemble the Taco
Spread the taco on a tortilla or roti. Spoon the yogurt sauce over and lay all the components on top. Finish with cheese and mint for that extra touch!

Apoorva Prakash is a freelance writer with a strong affinity for food, travel and culture. Her culinary stints include L’espalier in Boston, GAA in Bangkok, and Masque, Mumbai. She is currently at Hawksworth Restaurant, Vancouver. 

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